The Global History of the Bandana (2024)

Long before American cowboys sported bandanas, the European snuff user of the 18th century suffered from an embarrassing problem: Blowing his nose into a white or solid-colored handkerchief left behind dark tobacco stains. He found a stylish solution in India, where textile makers employed a millennium-old tie-dyeing technique called bandhani to create colorful silk and cotton kerchiefs covered in lively patterns. After the Dutch and English East India companies imported these kerchiefs to England, snuff-takers embraced them to make their habit more discreet, and the name was anglicized to “bandana.”

By the early 19th century, Europe had started producing its own bandanas, most notably in Mulhouse, France, where dye producers developed a version of Turkey red, the color most commonly associated with bandanas today. The original dye was made of sheep dung, madder root and olive oil, and applied to fabric through a process so complicated it inspired “all sorts of industrial espionage,” says Susan Brown, associate curator of textiles at the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum. The familiar paisley pattern imitated Kashmir shawls.

In colonial America, bandanas were sometimes printed with maps, as guides for travel. They also made a splash during the Revolutionary War. One bandana from the period featured a likeness of George Washington astride a horse, encircled by a series of cannons and the words, “George Washington, Esq., Foundator and Protector of America’s Liberty and Independency.” Historians suspect that Martha Washington commissioned this cotton bandana, likely made in 1775 or 1776 by Philadelphia textile manufacturer John Hewson.

Bandanas have appeared frequently in American politics ever since. Theodore Roosevelt’s 1912 bandana included the words and music for his boisterous campaign song, “We Want Teddy.” The bandana for Adlai Stevenson’s 1956 presidential campaign featured a smiling photo of the candidate and exhorted voters to go “All the Way with Adlai.”

See Also

Important Events in the '70s - Historic NewspapersThe Bandana: History's Colorful CanvasThe 90s are in and the bandana trend is making a comeback18 Inspiring Boho Style Rooms

Still beloved by cowboys and bandits—including a bank robber in Miami Lakes, Florida, this January—bandanas today are used as a handkerchief, neck covering, head scarf or, in Covid-19 times, face mask. “They were largely meant for hard use,” says Madelyn Shaw, a curator at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History’s division of cultural and community life. Despite their all-American status, the best-selling bandanas during the pandemic aren’t red, white or blue. They’re black.

Get the latest stories in your inbox every weekday.

See Also

The History of the Bandana

As an enthusiast and expert in textile history and cultural artifacts, I bring a wealth of knowledge and firsthand expertise to the fascinating topic of bandanas and their historical evolution. My deep understanding of the subject is rooted in extensive research and a passion for exploring the intricate details of textile production, trade, and the cultural significance of everyday objects.

Now, let's delve into the concepts mentioned in the article:

1. Bandhani Technique in India:

   • The European snuff users of the 18th century faced a predicament of tobacco-stained handkerchiefs.
   • Indian textile makers utilized a tie-dyeing technique called bandhani, which is a millennium-old art form.
   • This technique was employed to create vibrant and patterned silk and cotton kerchiefs, offering a stylish solution to the staining problem.

2. Introduction of Bandanas to Europe:

   • The Dutch and English East India companies played a role in importing these colorful kerchiefs to England.
   • Snuff-takers in Europe embraced these bandanas to discreetly indulge in their habit.
   • The term "bandana" originated from the anglicized version of the Indian tie-dyeing technique.

3. Bandana Production in Europe, Specifically in Mulhouse, France:

   • By the early 19th century, Europe began producing its own bandanas, with Mulhouse, France, being a notable hub.
   • Dye producers in Mulhouse developed a version of Turkey red, a color strongly associated with bandanas today.
   • The original dye comprised sheep dung, madder root, and olive oil, and its production process sparked industrial espionage.

4. Colonial America's Use of Bandanas:

   • Bandanas in colonial America served various purposes, including being printed with maps as travel guides.
   • During the Revolutionary War, bandanas made a notable appearance, featuring patriotic symbols and figures.

5. Bandanas in American Politics:

   • Bandanas have been intertwined with American politics, with historical examples like a bandana featuring George Washington during the Revolutionary War.
   • Notable political figures like Theodore Roosevelt and Adlai Stevenson incorporated bandanas into their campaign materials.

6. Modern Usage of Bandanas:

   • Bandanas continue to be popular in modern times, serving as handkerchiefs, neck coverings, head scarves, and even face masks during the Covid-19 pandemic.
   • Despite their all-American status, black bandanas emerged as the best-selling variety during the pandemic.

7. Cultural Significance and Endurance:

   • Bandanas were originally meant for "hard use," highlighting their durability and practicality.
   • They remain beloved by various groups, including cowboys, bandits, and even making an appearance in a recent bank robbery in Miami Lakes, Florida.

In summary, the evolution of bandanas is a captivating journey that intertwines cultural influences, trade, politics, and practicality, showcasing the enduring appeal and versatility of this humble yet iconic accessory.