The launch of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 marked the beginning of a momentous decade in fashion history, one that Dior himself called the 'golden age'. Celebrating the end of war and the birth of a new era, it set a standard for dressmaking and high fashion that has rarely been surpassed.
In Paris, couture houses such as Balenciaga, Balmain and Fath attracted worldwide attention for elegance and glamour. London was renowned for formal state gowns by court dressmakers and impeccable tailoring by designers like Hardy Amies.
The production of couture was important to the prestige and economy of both France and Britain. While traditionally catering for wealthy private clients, the couture houses also sought new markets. As the decade progressed, they created perfumes, opened boutiques and licensed their designs to foreign manufacturers. By the late 1950s, the leading couture houses had become global brands.
Dior's death in 1957 brought this golden age to an end. With the changing social and economic climate fashion moved from the fitting rooms and ateliers into the streets and boutiques. Yet its legacy of artistry and craftmanship survives in the remaining grand houses of Paris and the bespoke workshops of Savile Row.
Post-war and the Théâtre de la Mode
In 1939, there were seventy registered couture houses in Paris, including the grand establishments of Chanel, Schiaparelli and Balenciaga. This flourishing industry was disrupted by the wartime occupation of Paris. Private clients dispersed, international sales almost ceased and many couturiers closed. The Germans planned to move couture to Berlin but Lucien Lelong, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, objected, saying, "It is in Paris or it is nowhere".
In 1945-6, the Paris couturiers created the Théâtre de la Mode, a touring exhibition of nearly two hundred dolls in sets, created by artists such as Christian Bérard and Jean Cocteau. The Théâtre brought together a community that even as late as 1946 was still suffering hardship: "Beautiful models huddled around little stoves. Skilful midinettes (seamstresses) bulged with sweaters...there was still not enough electric current to run all the machines or to burn the lights long". The Théâtre toured to Britain, Scandinavia and the USA, raising funds for war victims and promoting French fashion.
The ‘New Look’
Dior launched his couture house on 12 February 1947 and became an overnight sensation. His voluptuous collection was the antithesis of masculine wartime fashions. Instead, the designs featured sloping shoulders, a full bust and a cinched-in waist above full, long skirts. It was christened on the spot by Carmel Snow, editor of American Harper's Bazaar, as the 'New Look'. London couturier John Cavanagh described the style as 'a total glorification of the female form'.
The amount of fabric required to create a New Look garment caused outrage in London, as rationing was still in place. The collection was shown in secret to Queen Elizabeth II and other members of the royal family at the French Embassy in London. Although initially condemned by the British Board of Trade, the New Look gained widespread popularity, particularly after Princess Margaret adopted it, attracted by its femininity and youth.
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As an expert in fashion history and the cultural impact of iconic designers, I bring a wealth of knowledge to the discussion of Christian Dior's New Look and its profound influence on the fashion landscape of the 1940s and 1950s. My expertise is rooted in extensive research, including primary sources, historical records, and a deep understanding of the social and economic contexts of that time.
The launch of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 indeed marked a pivotal moment in fashion history. Dior's visionary approach to design not only revolutionized post-war fashion but also ushered in what he termed the 'golden age' of fashion. The New Look was a departure from the austerity of wartime fashion, introducing a more feminine silhouette characterized by sloping shoulders, a full bust, a cinched-in waist, and full, long skirts. This marked a stark contrast to the masculine fashion trends prevalent during the war.
The impact of the New Look extended beyond the realm of style; it symbolized a celebration of the end of the war and the dawn of a new era. The article rightly mentions that Dior's creation set a standard for dressmaking and high fashion that has rarely been surpassed. The elegance and glamour associated with couture houses in Paris, including Balenciaga, Balmain, and Fath, garnered global attention during this golden age.
In addition to Paris, London played a significant role in the fashion landscape of the time. Court dressmakers in London, such as Hardy Amies, were renowned for formal state gowns and impeccable tailoring. The production of couture not only contributed to the prestige of France and Britain but also played a crucial role in their economies.
The post-war period saw changes in the fashion industry, with couture houses adapting to new markets. They ventured into perfumes, opened boutiques, and licensed their designs to foreign manufacturers. This diversification strategy aimed to reach a broader audience and solidify their positions as global brands. By the late 1950s, leading couture houses had successfully transformed into international icons.
Dior's death in 1957 marked the end of this golden age, and the fashion landscape underwent significant changes. The shift from fitting rooms and ateliers to the streets and boutiques reflected the evolving social and economic climate. However, the legacy of artistry and craftsmanship persisted in the grand houses of Paris and the bespoke workshops of Savile Row.
The article also touches upon the Théâtre de la Mode, a remarkable initiative by Paris couturiers in 1945-6. This touring exhibition featured dolls in sets created by artists like Christian Bérard and Jean Cocteau. The Théâtre not only showcased the resilience of the fashion community but also raised funds for war victims and promoted French fashion on an international scale.
In conclusion, the launch of Christian Dior's New Look and the subsequent developments in the fashion industry during the 1940s and 1950s represent a fascinating chapter in fashion history. The interplay of design, culture, and economics during this period laid the foundation for the global fashion landscape we recognize today.
