The kimono and the colour red • V&A Blog (2024)

Colours have strong metaphoricaland culturalmeanings when it comes to the kimono – the iconic garment of Japan.Read on to discover the significance of the colour red.

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The dazzling red dye used to colour many Edo period (1615 – 1868) kimono derives from safflower (benibana), which was extremely costly. Its use was often combined with an expensive and labour-intensive tie-dyetechniquecalledkanokoshibori.The garment above is therefore hugely extravagant, in terms of both price and visual effect.

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In Edo period Japan, the colour red signified youth and glamour. The benibanadye faded quickly, so the colour became symbolic of mad, passionate love that is all consuming but fleeting. Red kimono with tie-dyed hemp-leaf designs were associated with courtesans, but thisgarment may have been worn by ayoungmerchant-classwomancopyingthe fashions of the pleasure district.

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Red was a favoured colour of courtesans who were the fashion leaders of their day. Their seductive power relied on gorgeous garments.This courtesan’souter-kimono bears the powerful design of a dragon emerging from clouds, while her inner garment has the red, tie-dyed pattern of hemp leaves so favoured by high-ranking prostitutes.

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During the Edo period, the expensive benibanared dye was often banned by lawsput in placetopreventconspicuous consumption. Yet there was no restriction on usingthe dyefor undergarments or linings. Here, the woman in the boat is lifting the hem of her kimono to seductively reveal the red underneath. Wearing the coveted colour in this way became very fashionable, a fleeting glimpse being deemed far more sensuous than an overt display.

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Even in the modern world, red can still signify glamour and passion. Madonna wore this striking scarlet Jean Paul Gaultier ensemble for her music video Nothing Really Matters. She was inspired by ArthurGolden’sbestselling book Memoirs of a Geisha, referring to the novel’s fiery antagonistHatsumomoas her ‘muse’.

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Produced as part of Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk exhibition.

The kimono and the colour red • V&A Blog (2024)

FAQs

What does the red kimono symbolize? ›

Perhaps the most popular colour for kimono is red, derived from safflower (benibana). Red signifies youthful glamour and allure, and so is suitable for the garments of young women. The richest source for kimono motifs comes from the natural world.

What does the color on the kimono mean? ›

- The kimono colors have distinctive meanings in Japan. Blue: the ocean and sky; red: wards off evil spirits; pink: spring and youth; purple: noble; yellow: harvest season. Bright colors used for spring, dark colors used for winter and paster colors are used for summer.

What does kimono represent? ›

The kimono unified the people of Japan, and the dress is still worn today at cultural and special events to honor the old traditions. In the later periods of Japan's history, the kimono became a representative of your class, wealth, and age.

What is the meaning of the black kimono? ›

In Japan, black kimono are generally considered more formal than other more colorful options. For women, a black kimono with a family crest, known as a kurotomesode, is often worn for very formal events such as weddings (by married female relatives of the bride or groom) or other significant social gatherings.

What is the meaning of the color red in Japanese culture? ›

The color red is associated strongly with authority, strength, sacrifice, joy, and happiness. It is regarded as an auspicious color in Japan, especially when paired with white (also used on the national flag).

Who wore the red kimono? ›

Red kimono with tie-dyed hemp-leaf designs were associated with courtesans, but this garment may have been worn by a young merchant-class woman copying the fashions of the pleasure district. Red was a favoured colour of courtesans who were the fashion leaders of their day.

What color kimono is traditionally worn to indicate mourning? ›

White, symbolizing purity and simplicity, is often worn during significant life events like weddings or as a sign of mourning. Red, a vibrant and optimistic color, represents celebration and vitality, frequently seen during festivals. Black exudes formality and elegance, typically worn on formal occasions.

What does the word kimono mean for today? ›

: a long robe with wide sleeves traditionally worn with a broad sash as an outer garment by the Japanese. 2. : a loose dressing gown or jacket.

What is the saying about kimono? ›

“Open the kimono” is an expression still used in business meetings and communications when a company or team must share its internal workings or projects with a potential partner or buyer.

Why did Japanese stop wearing kimono? ›

During the Meiji period (1868-1912), Japan was heavily influenced by foreign cultures. The government encouraged people to adopt Western clothing and habits. Government officials and military personnel were required by law to wear Western clothing for official functions.

What is a male kimono called? ›

The montsuki is a formal kimono worn by men at official ceremonies and significant celebrations. It is usually made of black silk and features a "mon" (family emblem) pattern on the back and sleeves. The montsuki is often accompanied by a hakama, a traditional pleated pants.

What do you wear under a kimono? ›

Juban(Nagajuban)

It is an undergarment that you wear under kimono, except Yukata.

Who did the red kimono belong to? ›

Though the kimono originally belonged to Countess Andrenyi, she was not the one wearing it because Poirot seems to accept that she truly was sleeping, after taking sleeping medication, when the murder took place.

What is a red and white kimono called? ›

Uchikake is a formal womens kimono exclusively used as bridalwear or for classic theatrical productions like kabuki—the term uchikake only refers to the outer layer of women's traditional wedding clothing. In addition, this jacket usually has bright red or white as the color palette, symbolizing rebirth as a bride.

What does a red ribbon mean in Japan? ›

Like many asian cultures, the Japanese believe that lovers are predestined to meet, and a red ribbon connects future couples. This ribbon, of course, is invisible to humans, but spirits and gods can observe the interconnections between fated pairs.

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