When we break the word “kimono” into two parts, we’re left withki, meaning “wear,” andmono, meaning “thing.”A kimono, then, is a “thing to wear,” a matter-of-fact translation for a symbolic garment, loaded with a complex, extensive history and frequently associated with politeness and formality. The silken, long-sleeved robes are admired the world over for their beautiful prints and vibrant colors—flashy geranium reds, vibrant fuchsia pinks, and deep salvia blues.
Cover of the new edition of Kimono and the Colors of Japan. Photo: Courtesy of PIE International
Despite their popularity around the world, there are cultural sensitivities regarding who can and should wear the outfits. In fact, a set of rules, called kitsuke, govern how kimonos and yukatas—the kimono’s casual counterpart—should always be worn. When unpacking the question of cultural appropriation versus appreciation, it’s important to examine the traditions and symbolism behind the garment’s famous array of colors.
Enter Kimono and the Colors of Japan,from Japanese publisher PIE International. Originally published in 2005, an updatededition was released last month that explores the cultural and historical significance of the colors of kimonos and obis, or sashes, through the lens of a rare antique collection. Written by noted Tokyo-based stylist Katsumi Yumioka, who began his career in the fashion industry, participating in such high-profile shows as Christian Dior, the book explores what the author calls “JapaneseKokoro no Iro,” or “colors of the Japanese heart,” presenting an image of what Japanese people understand individual colors to express or symbolize.
See below for a crash course on the meaning behind five kimono colors.
Hana asagi (Blue)
Hana’asagi (blue) kimono. Photo: Courtesy of PIE International
Blue evokes elements of the natural world: the sky and the ocean. The name for this particular shade of bluedenotes a pale green-blue enhanced by flowers, pointing to the process through which it is achieved. Developed towards the end of the Edo period, the dye is mixed with juices squeezed from blue dayflowers.
Momo-iro (Pink)
Momo-iro (pink) kimono. Photo: Courtesy of PIE International
In Japan, pink is a color associated with springtime. However, because the price of the plant used to create pink dyes was historically high, lighter shades and peaches were more common, as dyers diluted the base materials. Named for its resemblance to the peach blossom, this fuchsia hue—pale with a hint of yellow—is realized through a combination of plum vinegar and reduced safflower dye.
Shōjōhi (Red)
Shōjōhi (red) kimono. Photo: Courtesy of PIE International
Known as a sacred color, red represents life’s vitals: the dawn, fire, and blood. Taking its name from a mythological ape-like sea spirit with a red face and a taste for wine, this vivid vermillion is derived from the cacti-chomping cochineal bug. The same pigment is still used in many of today’s makeups and food coloring.
Koki-murasaki (Purple)
Koki-murasaki (purple) kimono. Photo: Courtesy of PIE International
Since ancient times purple has been a color of royalty in many parts of the world, and Japan is no different. This shade of deep purple, tinged with black, is created through a blend of purple dye with vinegar and lye. It was reserved for the kimonos worn by Japan’s highest-ranking individuals and denied to lower classes.
Kihada (Green-Yellow)
Kihada (green-yellow) kimono. Photo: Courtesy of PIE International
The pigment behind this shade of bright greenish-yellow is created from a liquid extracted from the inner-bark of mandarin orange trees, then combined with lye to produce a tint. The extract was also an effective insect repellant and frequently used to dye paper scrolls, enhancing the look of ink. The hue connotes the harvest season and is regarded as a noble color.
Cover: Intricately patterned kimonos.
Photo: Courtesy of PIE International
FAQs
- The kimono colors have distinctive meanings in Japan. Blue: the ocean and sky; red: wards off evil spirits; pink: spring and youth; purple: noble; yellow: harvest season. Bright colors used for spring, dark colors used for winter and paster colors are used for summer.
How to choose kimono color? ›
If someone has "warm" tones, the conventional wisdom says, they should wear warm colors (red, yellow, orange, brown). If they have "cool" tones, they should wear matching cool colors (blue, green, purple).
What does the red kimono symbolize? ›
Perhaps the most popular colour for kimono is red, derived from safflower (benibana). Red signifies youthful glamour and allure, and so is suitable for the garments of young women. The richest source for kimono motifs comes from the natural world.
What does a black kimono symbolize? ›
In Japan, black kimono are generally considered more formal than other more colorful options. For women, a black kimono with a family crest, known as a kurotomesode, is often worn for very formal events such as weddings (by married female relatives of the bride or groom) or other significant social gatherings.
What do different colors mean in Japanese culture? ›
In Japan, there are only four colors to be considered primary, pure, and genuine. White is a color of purity and represents truth, humility, and mourning. Black is associated with formality as well as mourning. Red is symbolic of the sun and is linked to authority, strength, sacrifice, joy, and happiness.
Do kimono colors have meanings? ›
- The kimono colors have distinctive meanings in Japan. Blue: the ocean and sky; red: wards off evil spirits; pink: spring and youth; purple: noble; yellow: harvest season. Bright colors used for spring, dark colors used for winter and paster colors are used for summer.
What is the color code for kimono? ›
Color
| Indigo blue (#006a95) | Navy (#2a305c) | Pink (#fa999a) |
| Coral (#f17161) | Red (#f30000) | Orange (#ed7a25) |
| Golden yellow (#ffa826) | Yellow (#ffdc00) | Olive (#6a5d2a) |
| | *Codes in parentheses ( ) are color codes, which are based on color hexadecimal. |
| Gold | Silver | |
7 more rowsIn Shinto, white is a color of ritual purity, traditionally reserved for priests and the dead. This kimono can either be a katabira (a plain, white, unlined kimono) or a kyokatabira (a white katabira inscribed with Buddhist sutras).
What does wearing a kimono represent? ›
The meaning of wearing a kimono varies depending on the context, but generally, it is a symbol of respect for tradition, culture, and history. In Japan, the kimono is considered formal attire for special occasions such as weddings, tea ceremonies, and other cultural events.
Why do Japanese people wear red? ›
The Passion for Red in Japanese Culture (赤, Aka)
There's a whisper in the winds of Japan that red is the bane of malevolent spirits, a beacon of protection, a bastion of strength, an emblem of peace, and a powerful symbol of authority.
Just wear it like you would a bathrobe or a housecoat, simply tied around the waist. The only Japanese cultural rule to follow is to close the kimono robe with the left side over right, as the opposite way is the way to dress a corpse.
What do the flowers on a kimono mean? ›
NATURE MOTIFS
There are several different types of flowers found on the kimono, including chrysanthemums, plum blossoms, and bellflowers. Chrysanthemums are a motif common to kimono design and are used to symbolize longevity, beauty, and transformation.
What do the sleeves on a kimono mean? ›
The sleeves of the kimono indicate the age and marital status of a woman. A young unmarried woman would wear a furisode, a colorful kimono with flowing sleeves that hang almost to the ankles.
What color is lucky in Japan? ›
Symbol of good luck and happiness, red is the ultimate color. The wagasa - traditional Japanese umbrella made from bamboo, cord and washi paper (a type common throughout the archipelago) - had up to the 16th century the status of luxury object, thought to ward off evil spirits.
What is the best color for Japanese? ›
Blue and White – popular colors of Japan.
What are the five colors in Japanese? ›
Japanese cuisine is based on the principle of "five flavors, five colors, five ways" or "gomi goshoku goho." And this applies in particular to traditional kaiseki cuisine. The "five flavors" refers to sweet, sour, spicy, bitter, salty. And the "five colors" are white, yellow, red, green, black.
How to match a kimono? ›
Combine a kimono with solid garments
Long, short, blue, pink, green or floral. Kimonos come in all colours and shapes and are therefore perfect statement pieces to combine with solid garments. For example, a pair of jeans and a white top go very well with a coloured kimono.
What are Japanese color preferences? ›
It should be noted that the top four colors (blue, red, white, and black) have consistently been found to be preferred highly in Japan by the method of choosing a favorite color from a color chart, as reported in related color preference studies [14].
