Nothing says Christmas quite like a fruitcake – or, at the very least, a fruitcake joke.
A quip attributed to former “Tonight Show” host Johnny Carson has it that “There is only one fruitcake in the entire world, and people keep sending it to each other.”
It’s certainly earned its reputation for longevity.
Two friends from Iowa have been exchanging the same fruitcake since the late 1950s. Even older is the fruitcake left behind in Antarctica by the explorer Robert Falcon Scott in 1910. But the honor for the oldest known existing fruitcake goes to one that was baked in 1878 when Rutherford B. Hayes was president of the United States.
What’s amazing about these old fruitcakes is that people have tasted them and lived, meaning they are still edible after all these years. The trifecta of sugar, low moisture ingredients and some high-proof spirits make fruitcakes some of the longest-lasting foods in the world.
The original energy bar
Fruitcake is an ancient goody, with the oldest versions a sort of energy bar made by the Romans to sustain their soldiers in battle. The Roman fruitcake was a mash of barley, honey, wine and dried fruit, often pomegranate seeds.
What you might recognize as a modern-style fruitcake – a moist, leavened dessert studded with fruits and nuts – was probably first baked in the early Middle Ages in Europe. Cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg were symbols of culinary sophistication, and these sweet spices started appearing alongside fruit in many savory dishes – especially breads, but also main courses.
Before long, most cuisines had some sort of fruited breads or cakes that were early versions of the modern fruitcake.
Pope Francis smells a Christmas panettone cake offered to him in 2018 at the Vatican. Photo by VINCENZO PINTO/AFP via Getty Images
Fruitcakes are different in Europe than they are in America. European fruitcakes are more like the medieval fruited bread than the versions made in Great Britain and the United States. The two most common styles of fruitcake in Europe are the stollen and panettone.
British and American versions are much more cakelike. For over-the-top extravagance, honors have to go to a British version that crowns a rich fruitcake with a layer of marzipan icing.
Sweetening the pot
Fruitcakes came to America with the European colonists, and the rising tide of emigration from Britain to New England closely mirrored an influx of cheap sugar from the Caribbean.
Sugar was the key to preserving fruit for use across the seasons. One of the favorite methods of preserving fruit was to “candy” it. Candied fruit – sometimes known as crystallized fruit – is fruit that’s been cut into small pieces, boiled in sugar syrup, tossed in granulated sugar and allowed to dry.
Thanks to this technique, colonists were able to keep fruit from the summer harvest to use in their Christmas confections, and fruitcakes became one of the most popular seasonal desserts.
A dessert with staying power
Fruitcakes were also popular due to their legendary shelf life, which, in an era before mechanical refrigeration, was extremely desirable.
Fruitcake aficionados will tell you that the best fruit cakes are matured – or “seasoned” in fruitcake lingo – for at least three months before they are cut. Seasoning not only improves the flavor of the fruitcake, but it makes it easier to slice.
Seasoning a fruitcake involves brushing your fruitcake periodically with your preferred distilled spirit before wrapping it tightly and letting it sit in a cool, dark place for up to two months. The traditional spirit of choice is brandy, but rum is also popular. In the American South, where fruitcake is extremely popular, bourbon is preferred. A well-seasoned fruitcake will get several spirit baths over the maturation period.
Credit for the fruitcake’s popularity in America should at least partially go to the U.S. Post Office.
The institution of Rural Free Delivery in 1896 and the addition of the Parcel Post service in 1913 caused an explosion of mail-order foods in America. Overnight, once rare delicacies were a mere mail-order envelope away for people anywhere who could afford them.
Given fruitcake’s long shelf life and dense texture, it was a natural for a mail-order food business. America’s two most famous fruitcake companies, Claxton’s of Claxton, Georgia, and Collin Street of Corsicana, Texas, got their start in this heyday of mail-order food. By the early 1900s, U.S. mailrooms were full of the now ubiquitous fruitcake tins.
As late as the 1950s, fruitcakes were a widely esteemed part of the American holiday tradition. A 1953 Los Angeles Times article called fruitcake a “holiday must,” and in 1958, the Christian Science Monitor asked, “What Could Be a Better Gift Than Fruitcake?” But by 1989, a survey by Mastercard found that fruitcake was the least favorite gift of 75% of those polled.
Haters and disrespect aside, fruitcake is still a robust American tradition: The website Serious Eats reports that over 2 million fruitcakes are still sold each year.
This article is republished from The Conversation. Read the original article.
As a seasoned culinary historian and enthusiast, I've delved into the rich tapestry of gastronomic traditions, exploring the roots and evolution of various dishes. Fruitcakes, a timeless holiday treat, are no exception to my extensive knowledge of culinary history and practices. Allow me to guide you through the intriguing world of fruitcakes, unraveling their historical significance, cultural variations, and enduring appeal.
The notion of fruitcakes as a holiday staple, often accompanied by humorous jabs, is deeply ingrained in popular culture. Johnny Carson's quip about the perpetual exchange of a single fruitcake captures the essence of its enduring presence. Remarkably, anecdotes of friends exchanging the same fruitcake since the 1950s and one left in Antarctica in 1910 emphasize the longevity and resilience of this festive dessert.
Delving into the historical roots, fruitcakes trace their origins back to ancient times. The Romans crafted a primitive form akin to an energy bar, sustaining soldiers with a concoction of barley, honey, wine, and dried fruit. The evolution into the modern-style fruitcake, a moist and leavened dessert adorned with fruits and nuts, likely occurred in the early Middle Ages in Europe.
Europe boasts distinct variations of fruitcakes, such as the stollen and panettone, each reflecting regional preferences. In contrast, British and American versions lean towards a more cake-like consistency, with British renditions even featuring marzipan icing for added opulence.
The migration of fruitcakes to America accompanied European colonists, coinciding with the influx of affordable sugar from the Caribbean. Sugar, essential for preserving fruit, led to the creation of candied fruit, a key component in colonial Christmas confections. Fruitcakes, with their legendary shelf life, became a popular choice in an era predating refrigeration.
The meticulous art of maturing or "seasoning" fruitcakes contributes not only to enhanced flavor but also facilitates easier slicing. Spirit baths, using brandy, rum, or bourbon, play a pivotal role in this process, elevating the culinary experience. The fruitcake's enduring popularity in America owes a debt to the U.S. Post Office, with mail-order services propelling renowned companies like Claxton's and Collin Street into the limelight.
Despite fluctuations in public opinion, with a Mastercard survey in 1989 dubbing fruitcake the least favorite gift, it remains an integral part of American holiday traditions. Today, over 2 million fruitcakes are sold annually, attesting to its enduring presence and cultural significance.
In conclusion, the journey of fruitcakes from ancient Roman energy bars to cherished holiday desserts is a testament to their adaptability and timeless appeal. Through the lens of history, culture, and culinary craftsmanship, fruitcakes continue to weave themselves into the fabric of festive traditions, embodying the spirit of celebration and indulgence.
