This is the donut capital of the United States (2024)

ByHannah Sheinberg

Photographs byTheo Stroomer

Published June 5, 2019

8 min read

Don’t let its reputation for kale salads and acai bowls fool you—Los Angeles is the hole-ly grail for donut devotees. Almost 1,500 independent donut shops dish out these deep-fried delights, which means there are more opportunities for a sugar high here than anywhere else in the country.

L.A. became the country’s epicenter of donut culture when Ted Ngoy, a Cambodian immigrant, arrived in California during the 1970s. After setting up a sweet shop of his own, he helped fellow refugees who had fled from the Khmer Rouge create their own pastry empires. Ngoy was the first to package donuts in light pink boxes, now a ubiquitous emblem of the local donut scene. (See dreamy photos of California to inspire your next trip.)

<p>Universal Studios theme park in Hollywood sells supersize donuts. </p>

Universal Studios theme park in Hollywood sells supersize donuts.

Photograph by Theo Stroomer

Natives of the Southeast Asian country established the city’s donut culture, and their legacy endures; the majority of L.A.’s donut shops are still owned by Cambodian Americans.

“Donut shops were Cambodians’ link to being able to make it in America, their key to opportunity,” says Mayly Tao, owner and CEO of DK’s Donuts. “I love that donuts can unite a community that no borders, race, or differences can take away.” (After eating, here are 10 iconic activities in Los Angeles.)

DK’s Donuts has been a family-run staple in Santa Monica for almost 40 years, but their offerings are anything but mom-and-pop. They serve up 120 distinct options, from ube, a purple yam flavor popular in the Philippines, to red velvet waffle-donut hybrids. Blinkie’s Donut Emporium, owned by a Cambodian American father-daughter duo, offers handmade donuts daily, always closing at noon so their selection never stales. Then there’s Donut City, operated for three decades by John and Stella Chhan, a Cambodian couple who moved to southern California in 1979. The shop is so beloved by the community that when Stella got sick, locals bought out the shop early every day so John could be with his wife—proving that donuts can actually be good for you.

Just like the population of L.A. itself, the city’s donut culture has evolved. They’ve gone from glazed to gluten-free, jam-filled to cookie butter-stuffed. The City of Angels is the frosted frontier.

Newer shops also have started to embrace the area’s vibrant Mexican roots. Donas combines Latin comfort food with nostalgia … and plenty of sugar. Their interpretation of a maple bacon donut swaps in chicharrón instead, while the bionico donut mimics the eponymous Mexican fruit salad. And at Trejo’s Coffee & Donuts, opened by actor and East L.A. native Danny Trejo, you can order a café con leche, both in coffee and donut form. The menu also includes yeasted versions of horchata, tres leches, and nacho, a savory donut with jalapeño, cheddar, and hot sauce.

Donut Friend brings a punk rock mentality to the donut game, with concoctions like the peanut butter-packed Banana Kill and the matcha-glazed Green Teagan and Sara. If you want to create your own greatest hit, you can also completely customize your order, choosing from options like raspberry habanero jam, balsamic reduction, mochi, and chocolate-covered pretzels.

But not every donut needs Fruity Pebbles or crushed Oreos to shine. The Donut Man, a prime pit stop on Route 66, stuffs its classic glazed with mounds of fresh, local strawberries and peaches. (They’re only available while in season, so plan your visit accordingly.) For those craving a sweet treat sans gluten, Fonuts specializes in baked donuts made using almond flour. Many of them are vegan, too. With flavors like blueberry earl grey and churro, they don’t feel like a compromise. (Read about more stops for a Route 66 road trip.)

Enjoying a donut has become an almost religious experience in the City of Angels, thanks to the Cambodian community. And they’re worth the pilgrimage. In this town, donuts are the real stars.

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As a true aficionado of donut culture and its rich history, I'm here to shed light on the fascinating world of Los Angeles' donut scene, an expertise that extends far beyond the kale salad and acai bowl stereotypes associated with the city. The article you've provided, authored by Hannah Sheinberg and featuring photographs by Theo Stroomer, explores the deep-fried delights that make Los Angeles the "hole-ly grail" for donut devotees.

The narrative delves into the roots of L.A.'s donut culture, attributing its emergence as a national epicenter to Ted Ngoy, a Cambodian immigrant who arrived in California during the 1970s. Ngoy not only set up his sweet shop but played a pivotal role in helping fellow refugees establish their own pastry empires, creating a lasting legacy. The iconic light pink donut boxes, now a ubiquitous symbol in the local scene, originated from Ngoy's innovative packaging.

The article emphasizes the enduring influence of Cambodian Americans in shaping the city's donut culture. Many of the nearly 1,500 independent donut shops in L.A. are still owned by members of the Southeast Asian community. Mayly Tao, owner and CEO of DK’s Donuts, highlights the significance of donut shops as a link to success for Cambodian immigrants in America, serving as a key to opportunity that unites communities across borders, race, and differences.

DK’s Donuts, a family-run staple in Santa Monica for almost 40 years, boasts a menu of 120 distinct options, showcasing the diversity of flavors and styles. Blinkie’s Donut Emporium, owned by a Cambodian American father-daughter duo, and Donut City, operated for three decades by John and Stella Chhan, further contribute to the rich tapestry of L.A.'s donut culture.

The article also explores the evolution of the city's donut culture, from traditional glazed to modern variations like gluten-free, jam-filled, and cookie butter-stuffed creations. It highlights the incorporation of Mexican influences in newer establishments like Donas, which offers a unique twist on classics such as a chicharrón-infused maple bacon donut and a bionico donut inspired by the Mexican fruit salad.

Trejo’s Coffee & Donuts, founded by actor Danny Trejo, combines East L.A.'s vibrant Mexican roots with a diverse menu featuring items like café con leche in both coffee and donut form. Donut Friend introduces a punk rock mentality to the scene, offering customizable donuts with unique ingredients such as raspberry habanero jam, balsamic reduction, mochi, and chocolate-covered pretzels.

The article also features establishments like The Donut Man, a prime pit stop on Route 66, known for stuffing its classic glazed donuts with fresh, local strawberries and peaches during the respective seasons. Fonuts caters to those seeking gluten-free and vegan options, offering baked donuts made with almond flour in flavors like blueberry earl grey and churro.

In conclusion, Los Angeles' donut culture has become an integral part of the city's identity, with the Cambodian community playing a crucial role in its development. From classic favorites to innovative creations, L.A.'s donut scene continues to evolve, attracting donut enthusiasts from far and wide, making the experience of enjoying a donut in the City of Angels almost akin to a religious pilgrimage.

This is the donut capital of the United States (2024)
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