Turtleneck sweaters are a staple garment in the wardrobe of the well-dressed. But did you know they are also known as polo necks, mock necks, and even as a skivvy? In this guide, you will learn about the history of turtleneck sweaters, how they should fit, how you can style them, and what to look out for when you buy them.
Table of Contents
- What Is A Turtleneck?
- Turtleneck, Mock Neck, Polo Neck…What’s The Difference?
- Getting the Name Right
- Turtleneck History
- Who Wears Turtleneck Sweaters?
- How A Turtleneck Sweater Should Fit
- How To Style A Turtleneck Sweater
- How To Buy Turtlenecks?
What Is A Turtleneck?
A turtleneck is a type of sweater with a high collar that is folded over itself to create a double layer at the wearer’s neck. The name is derived from the visual similarity to the folds of skin that appear on the neck of an actual turtle. Traditionally, a turtleneck sweater has a slim fit to the body and is constructed so that the folded neck portion is finished in a ribbed knit in contrast to the body’s solid knit.
Turtleneck, Mock Neck, Polo Neck…What’s The Difference?
Whilst the term “turtleneck” is most commonly used, chances are you’ve probably heard other terms as well, and maybe you’ve seen other styles of sweaters! Here are the definitions for each term:
Getting the Name Right
1
Turtleneck
A turtleneck is a full-length sweater featuring a long tubular neck that is designed to be folded over itself into a double layer once worn.
2
Mock Neck
A Mock Neck is also a full-length sweater with a high tubular neck, however, the neck is about half the length of a turtleneck’s. This means a Mock Neck isn’t designed to be folded over like a turtleneck.
3
Polo Neck
A Polo Neck is the English (UK) name for a sweater with a high, tubular neck. Therefore, either a turtleneck or a Mock Neck could be considered a Polo Neck in this definition.
4
Roll Neck
A Roll Neck is another term for a turtleneck, which describes the style of the folded over neck portion of the sweater quite literally.
5
Skivvy
“Skivvy” is one other name for a turtleneck, which is typically used in Australia and New Zealand. The Skivvy may have a slightly looser neck, and be made from lighter weight fibres such as cotton.
6
Zip Neck
A Zip Neck resembles a Mock Neck, but it has the addition of a zip at the throat. This means that a Zip Neck is not considered part of the turtleneck family, despite its similarity once zipped up.
Turtleneck History
Turtlenecks in the Western Hemisphere can be traced back to the 15th century. Originally, knights and soldiers wearing heavy armor and chainmail would feel immense discomfort from having this metal press against the soft flesh of their necks. Therefore, they would wear much softer garments with a high neck to allow for greater comfort whilst fighting.
Whenever a knight was seen in his armor with his helmet removed, the high turtleneck-like garment could be seen, and members of royalty quickly adopted the high neck style into their clothing.
An Aristocratic Look
Whilst not technically a true turtleneck by today’s standards, having a garment that covered your neck and framed your face, such as the ruff collar, was highly desirable to demonstrate wealth and fame.
However, things changed dramatically in the 19th century, when high-necked garments were replaced with much taller shirt collars and elaborate neckwear. Around the 1840s, this style is worn most famously by the dandy often touted as “the father of modern style,” Beau Brummell. With this shift in attitude toward formal dress with tailored, not knitted garments, the turtleneck returned to its utilitarian roots.
At this point, the turtleneck was primarily a garment for the working class. In particular, sailors were extremely fond of turtleneck sweaters due to the simplicity of the garment, the ease of maintaining it, and the warmth they provided when out in cold and wet conditions.
The Submariner Sweater
Because of its prevalence among workers at sea, turtleneck sweaters can also be seen as part of the uniform for naval officers. Due to this military connection, heavyweight ivory or off-white turtlenecks may also be referred to as a “Submariner” Sweater.
The turtleneck maintained its connection with casual wear until the playwright Noel Coward wore it in the 1920s. It was subsequently adopted by the preppy style movement that was also happening at this time because people wanted something that was more casual. Men found that a turtleneck could be worn instead of a shirt and a tie, but due to the high neck on the garment, their face was still framed in an attractive style.
Ever since, turtlenecks have been going in and out of fashion. They had flashes of popularity in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. In particular, the youth of the 60s and 70s enjoyed wearing turtlenecks as part of the counterculture movement. They wanted to pair bold colors with extravagant suits, and a slim turtleneck allowed them to do this.
The 80s were pretty extravagant in their own ways regarding menswear, as is reflected in the businesswear shown in 1987’s Wall Street. Whilst there was a lot of casualization that was happening in the 80s, the decade also took a lot of inspiration from the 1930s in terms of classic menswear. This means that turtleneck sweaters were popular for men’s casual wear during this time, although they were mostly oversized turtlenecks in line with the trends of the decade.
Timeless Style
What’s interesting is that the overall design of the turtleneck has hardly changed throughout history, mainly due to the fact that it does its job of keeping the wearer warm and protected as well as being uniquely stylish.
Who Wears Turtleneck Sweaters?
In recent years, there has been a surge in popularity for not only the turtleneck but for the Mock Neck as well as Zip Necks too. It’s possible to see many elegant men incorporating this type of high neck knitwear into their closets for both smart and casual combinations.
Famous Faces in Turtleneck Sweaters
Throughout the years, many celebrities have taken to the turtleneck as an element of their style. Whether as a personal style statement or as part of a fictional character’s garb, these are a few that we particularly enjoy.
Clark Gable
One of Hollywood’s most enduring legends of the silver screen, Clark Gable was a well-documented fan of the turtleneck. Throughout his life, he could be spotted in high-neck knitwear, bringing his own personal touch to the garment. A particularly unique look was when he wore a thin turtleneck under a suede jacket. Instead of neatly folding the neck back on itself, Gable allowed the formation of soft ripples, adding a touch of sprezzatura to his look.
Steve McQueen
Undoubtedly living up to his moniker of “the King of Cool,” Steve McQueen famously enjoyed adopting casual clothing into his looks. The turtleneck made an iconic appearance in the 1968 film; ‘Bullitt.’ Pairing a dark turtleneck with soft tailoring elements, McQueen’s no-nonsense cop commanded an air of authority without ever needing a tie.
James Bond
Almost every actor to play James Bond has worn a turtleneck in some form. Roger Moore was perhaps one of the most prolific adopters of the turtleneck while in his tenure as 007, with the most iconic look being his debut Bond film; ‘Live and Let Die.’ In the film, he sports a look similar to McQueen’s Bullitt, consisting of dark trousers and a turtleneck with a gun holster for that edge of danger we’ve come to expect from super spies. This look was replicated by Daniel Graig in the poster for 2015’s ‘Spectre,’ although the cable knit turtlenecks worn in more recent Bond films are more visually interesting.
The Truman Show
Attempting to escape his televised life, Jim Carrey’s Truman Burbank dons a chunky cable knit turtleneck as part of his ensemble. The charcoal sweater fits nicely with the rest of his traditionally inspired seaman’s outfit, so it’s easy to see that this particular turtleneck was inspired by the thicker submariner sweaters worn at sea.
The Beatles
Perhaps contributing to the turtleneck’s surge in popularity in the 1960s, The Beatles were often seen wearing turtlenecks as part of their performance and private wardrobes. By pairing matching turtleneck sweaters, two-piece suits, and Cuban-heeled Chelsea boots, the band created an unforgettable outfit for their earlier band years.
Steve Jobs
Steve Jobs is perhaps one of the most well-known turtleneck aficionados in the 21st Century. What’s particularly interesting about Jobs is the fact that he chose to pair either a black mock neck or turtleneck sweater with a pair of blue jeans and sneakers. This was a conscious choice that came about as Jobs wanted an easy-to-wear uniform that meant he didn’t have to put much thought into the act of getting dressed. Regardless of whether you like the outfit, there’s no denying the black turtleneck reached a similar level of fame as Jobs himself.
Ron Burgundy
Known for his deep commitment to a part, comedian Will Ferrell portrays the often controversial news anchor Ron Burgundy. Meant to be a satirical take on the news reports of the 1970s that Ferrell would have grown up watching, turtleneck sweaters play a big part in the character’s wardrobe. While we may not be fans of the loud 1970s styles that Ron Burgundy enjoys, we can certainly appreciate his love of the turtleneck.
Howard Wolowitz
An unfortunate moment in fashion history, the Dickey is only the neck, shoulders, and upper chest portion of a turtleneck sweater. It came about as people wanted to layer clothing without overheating, and the Dickey allowed them to achieve this. Portrayed by Simon Helberg, The Big Bang Theory’s Howard Wolowitz is almost always dressed in a style mimicking the 1960’s layered look with a Dickey at the center of his ensemble.
Turtleneck Sweater FAQs
Are turtlenecks attractive?
A turtleneck can be an extremely attractive garment, as it’s designed to sit under your shin and frame your face well. Like with any clothing, how attractive a turtleneck looks all comes down to how you style it.
Is a turtleneck formal?
Typically speaking, a turtleneck is not considered a formal garment, but it can look dressy depending on what you pair it with. For example, a turtleneck paired with a sport coat or blazer will lend a relaxed elegance to your look.
Can I wear a turtleneck for business casual?
Turtleneck sweaters may very well be an acceptable item of clothing for a business casual look, but it all depends on the formality level in your office. If your colleagues wear a shirt and tie more often than not, then skip the turtleneck. If, however, you work in an office where more casual clothing is acceptable, then a classic turtleneck can be a fine addition to your workday attire.
Who is famous for wearing turtlenecks?
Many notable figures have worn turtlenecks throughout history, although they have become increasingly popular since the 1920s. You can find all sorts of famous faces in turtlenecks including Noel Coward, Clark Gable, and Ernest Hemmingway. Fictional characters that enjoy wearing turtlenecks include Truman Burbank, James Bond, and Ron Burgundy.
What is a Dickey?
Effectively just the neck and shoulder portion of a turtleneck, the Dickey (or “Dickie”) is somewhat of a fad that was popular in the 1960s and 70s. It calls for a multi-layered look without having the bulk or excess warmth of an actual turtleneck sweater under your clothes. The look is very dated, which is played on in the clothes worn by the character Howard Wolowitz from the television show ‘The Big Bang Theory’.
Can I wear a turtleneck as part of the black tie dress code?
Although black tie rules seem to be relaxing, a turtleneck isn’t appropriate for traditional black tie ensembles. This is because black tie requires that you wear a bow tie, which a turtleneck doesn’t allow for. It may be possible to wear a finely knitted dark turtleneck in either the “black tie optional” or “creative black tie” dress codes, where it looks best with a separate dinner jacket and pants.
Should I tuck in a turtleneck?
Whether you tuck a turtleneck sweater into your pants is subject to a few considerations: how fine the knit is, how formal your outfit is, and your own preferences. If you have a thin, lightweight turtleneck, it will likely benefit from being tucked in to create a neat look. If you want to appear in a more casual light, then a chunkier turtleneck can be left untucked for a relaxed edge.
How A Turtleneck Sweater Should Fit
Like most knitted sweaters, turtlenecks come in a range of different weights. Some are extremely thin, which makes a great relaxed yet elegant substitute for a regular dress shirt under a jacket. Whether you choose to wear an undershirt with this type of turtleneck is up to you, but bear in mind that although slim and very thin turtlenecks can be great to layer, wearing them on their own will really show every imperfection of your body.
Getting The Right Length
If you go for a thinner turtleneck as a substitute for a dress shirt, then you’ll want to ensure that it has a good length. It will need to reach past your waist so that you’re able to tuck the sweater into your trouser waistband, as the thinner style of turtleneck looks inelegant if it’s left to bunch up around your middle.
On the other end of the scale, you’ll find much thicker turtleneck sweaters meant to keep you warm enough against the elements, and you typically wouldn’t be able to wear them under a regular suit or sports jacket.
A good turtleneck sweater should be neither too big nor too small in its fit. So you’ll want to look for a close fit through the body and arms of your turtleneck without it constricting your ability to move freely.
Off The Cuff
Like the majority of other long-sleeved knitwear, a turtleneck’s cuffs will likely feature a ribbed construction. Sometimes, the cuffs can be worn turned back, so you are able to get a better sleeve length. However, this is a matter of personal preference and not an essential part of wearing a turtleneck.
If you’re wearing a traditional, folded turtleneck, then pay close attention to how the neck fits you; too tight and it’ll be uncomfortable throughout the day; too loose, and you’ll lose the flattering effect that a turtleneck has. The loose look was favorable in the 1980s, but this was part of the oversized fad of the time.
How To Style A Turtleneck Sweater
Turtleneck sweaters are quite unique in the world of menswear, as they can be dressed up or down easier than other items. Here are some of our favorite suggestions for wearing a turtleneck sweater with style:
Turtleneck Sweaters with Suits
Turtlenecks are a great way to dress down suits. Here, you can see how wearing a gray turtleneck with a navy suit creates a very different look than when the same suit is worn with a white shirt and a tie.
A turtleneck makes everything look a lot softer, yet you’re still well-dressed. However, some combinations should be avoided. For example, don’t combine a turtleneck with striped suits and jackets because it will come across as quite over the top due to the striped suit’s higher level of formality, and it can clash.
A particularly debonair way to wear a turtleneck is with a double-breasted jacket. This has a particularly interesting effect, where not only does the turtleneck become a little dressier, but the jacket will also seem more relaxed.
Turtleneck Sweaters for Evening Wear
To go even a step further, turtlenecks could be worn with a tuxedo or dinner jacket. You need a lot of confidence to pull off this look because black tie is a dress code with a more rigid level of formality A much better use of turtlenecks with evening wear would be for the creative black tie or black tie optional dress code.
Wearing Turtleneck Sweaters Casually
If you’re looking to dress down an outfit with a turtleneck sweater, you can use a thinner knit under a layering piece such as a denim shirt or perhaps even an overshirt. Naturally, this type of outfit can be finished with a pair of jeans and boots. It’s equally possible to elevate a casual turtleneck sweater with a pair of corduroy or flannel trousers and a pea coat.
Choosing the Right Color for your Turtleneck
One of the biggest challenges for turtlenecks is to combine them with your other garments, so it looks very well put together. In terms of color, if you follow the concept of contrast and harmony, you always look well-dressed.
In terms of colors, both gray and tan are fantastic choices, and those would be the first to invest your money in because generally, they work well with other classic menswear colors. Other options to look into would be things such as burgundy or dark green.
Don’t Go to the Dark Side
Steer clear of black or navy because they’re usually too similar to a suit jacket or blazer, causing everything to blend in and creating an unmatched monochromatic look that isn’t appealing.
A turtleneck can be thought of as a replacement for a white dress shirt. However, rather than going with a stark white, go with ivory or off-white because these are softer and blend in better with brown tones. You’ll still create contrast but in a way that is warmer and looks better put-together than a plain solid white.
Seeing Right Through You
Ivory and off-white are great classic color choices for turtlenecks. However, you need to be mindful that the material is thick enough to ensure that you don’t see any undershirt outlines, hair, or skin underneath.
How To Buy Turtlenecks?
First up, you’ll need to decide what sort of look you’re going for. If you want to stay on the formal end of the spectrum, then you’ll need to look for a thinner turtleneck, as the overall appearance will be smarter, pairing better with tailoring. If you want to incorporate a turtleneck into more casual ensembles, then you can look for something a little thicker, which harmonizes well with dressed-down outfits.
Cashmere Turtlenecks
Often touted as the premium wool for knitted garments to be made from, cashmere is a wonderful choice for a luxuriously soft turtleneck. It can be woven to be quite thin for a smarter-looking turtleneck, but cashmere can also be found in a more robust weave, too. Like all woolen garments, pilling is to be expected with cashmere. For this reason, regular care is required for a cashmere turtleneck.
Merino Turtlenecks
Naturally fine and with a surprising elasticity, merino wool is a versatile choice for a turtleneck sweater. It is often woven to be slim and smart, possessing a unique sheen that pairs very well with tailored garments. Merino wool is also typically less expensive than cashmere, with the added benefit of being more robust than delicate cashmere fibers.
Lambswool Turtlenecks
A robust, hardy choice for a turtleneck sweater, lambswool is a brilliant choice for when you want to feel protected against the elements. Strong, resilient fibers go into making a lambswool turtleneck that will insulate you from the cold. Lambswool will also provide a degree of water resistance, making it the fiber of choice for sea-faring travel. The downside of lambswool is that it’s not particularly fine in terms of the knit. So, it’s perfect for casual occasions but best left at home for when you want to dress things up.
Cotton Turtlenecks
A true clothing staple, cotton can be spun into yarn ready for use as a turtleneck. Interestingly, cotton can be presented as either a chunky or fine knit sweater, but it’s not the weight of the yarn that puts it on the casual end of the spectrum. Unlike the luster of either cashmere or merino wool, cotton can have somewhat of a flat appearance when finished as a knit. However, unlike the other materials listed here, cotton is by far the easiest to maintain, as it can be machine-washed with your regular garments.
What Should You Wear Under a Turtleneck?
Of course, personal preference will differ, but we strongly recommend wearing an undershirt under your turtleneck sweater. Having a layer between your skin and the fibers of your turtleneck will not only increase your comfort but also prolong the lifespan of your sweater, as it will require less frequent laundering.
In recent years, there has been a trend of wearing a soft collared shirt, such as an OCBD, underneath the turtleneck. The points of the collar are then flipped up against the neck and are displayed coming out of the turtleneck at the jawline.
This is quite an affected look and has the potential to come across as quite flamboyant and dandyish. Furthermore, your collared shirts aren’t designed to be worn this way with the collar flipped up, which can be pretty uncomfortable rubbing against your neck all day! Therefore, we’d recommend against this look and instead opt for a standard cotton undershirt.
As an enthusiast and expert in men's fashion and garment history, I'm well-versed in the nuances of clothing terminologies, historical origins, and styling techniques. I possess a comprehensive understanding of turtleneck sweaters and their various iterations, having studied their evolution, the diverse names they're known by globally, and their significance in different eras of fashion.
Concepts covered in the article:
Terminology and Variations of Turtleneck Sweaters
- Turtleneck: A sweater with a high collar folded over, resembling the folds of a turtle's neck.
- Mock Neck: Similar to a turtleneck but with a shorter neck that doesn't fold over.
- Polo Neck: The UK term for a high-necked sweater, encompassing both turtlenecks and mock necks.
- Roll Neck: Another name for a turtleneck, describing the style of the folded-over neck.
- Skivvy: An Australian/New Zealand term for a turtleneck, usually with a looser neck and lighter materials.
- Zip Neck: Similar to a mock neck but with a zip, not considered part of the turtleneck family.
History and Evolution of Turtleneck Sweaters
- Originating in the 15th century, initially worn by knights under armor for comfort.
- Adopted by royalty and nobility, demonstrating wealth and fashion.
- Shifted to utilitarian use among the working class, especially sailors, for practicality and warmth.
- Experienced shifts in popularity over time, from the 19th-century utilitarian purpose to adoption by the preppy style movement in the 1920s.
Icons and Styling
- Notable figures like Clark Gable, Steve McQueen, and James Bond contributed to its iconic status.
- Recommendations on styling turtlenecks with suits, for evening wear, and in casual outfits.
- Emphasis on color choices to complement other clothing items and create contrast.
Fit and Buying Guide
- Guidance on how a turtleneck sweater should fit, considering body type and knit weight.
- Different materials used for turtlenecks (cashmere, merino wool, lambswool, cotton) and their characteristics.
- Suggestions on what to wear underneath a turtleneck for comfort and longevity of the garment.
FAQs and Cultural References
- Answers to common questions like the formality of turtlenecks, famous wearers, and the concept of a "Dickey."
- References to cultural icons from films (James Bond, Steve Jobs) and television (Ron Burgundy, Howard Wolowitz) who prominently wore turtlenecks.
This comprehensive guide covers terminology, historical context, styling advice, fit recommendations, purchasing tips, and cultural references related to turtleneck sweaters, catering to both fashion novices and enthusiasts seeking a deeper understanding of this iconic garment's role in men's attire.
