Waste – is it ‘really’ in fashion? : Fashion Revolution (2024)

By Christina Dean

3 years ago

Christina Dean is the founder of the NGO Redress and The R Collective. Here, she shares her thoughts on the scope of fashion waste and challenges us all to reduce our fashion footprint in the coming year.

Over the last few months, you would be forgiven for believing that the entire global fashion industry has united shoulder-to-shoulder to fight fashion’s waste. From the glossy Vogue and ELLE pages to the buzzy and busy digital coverage, reducing waste, upcycling, recycling and circular business models seem to be firmly ‘in fashion’.

This is all great news – for sure – but it’s not enough cause for widespread celebration.

Over the last 12 years since I, together with the formidable teams at NGO Redress and upcycled fashion brand The R Collective teams, have worked neck-deep in textile waste issues to achieve our mission – to reduce waste in the fashion industry – one thing has become clear.

We are not winning the battle. The sobering reality is that we have a long way to go until waste really is both ‘in and out’ of fashion.

Let’s take a look at what is going on around us. The number of garments produced annually has doubled since 2000 and exceeded 100 billion for the first time in 2014 and an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste is created annually from the fashion industry. Shockingly, every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned globally.

Waste – is it ‘really’ in fashion? : Fashion Revolution (1)

If that wasn’t an insult – let’s add another injury: textile waste is estimated to increase by about 60% between 2015 and 2030, with an additional new 57 million tons of waste being generated annually, reaching an annual total of 148 million tons.

So whilst, I delightedly salute this current push to reduce fashion’s waste, I also wouldn’t raise a glass too high, especially because when it comes to sustainability, about one-third of the fashion industry has yet to take action at all.

So how do we deal with textile waste? Clearly an enormous challenge for an industry that thrives and survives on making and selling ‘new’ clothes. The pressing issue, as we know, is to power up and implement the circular economy, in which materials are captured and re-used throughout the lifecycle.

This is no easy feat – even for the top fashion businesses who are truly focused on this area.

Waste – is it ‘really’ in fashion? : Fashion Revolution (2)

Soaking up fashion’s waste also can’t be left to charities and NGOs, like Redress, to sort. Redress’ direct experience handling societies’ clothing cast offs has taught us how challenging – and costly – it is. Redress’ recent Get Redressed campaign saw us collect 15 tonnes of Hong Kong consumers’ unwanted clothes, which was sorted by 419 volunteers, totalling around 2,100 work-hours in our first 24 hour Sort-a-Thon, as garment-by-garment these clothes were hand-sorted and redistributed to different local charities for onward use. This cost Redress a bomb, and some sweat blood and tears thrown in. Elsewhere, Australian charitable recycling organisations are spending a staggering AUD$13 million (around GBP7m) per year sending unusable clothing donations to landfill.

Neither can the widening array of upcycled fashion brands cope with the textile waste deluge. Through the Redress Design Award sustainable fashion design competition and the 180+ talented alumnidesigners who have participated, we’ve proudly witnessed designers respond to waste’s urgent call by launching their own upcycled brands, left right and centre, including The R Collective upcycled fashion brand that was born from Redress.

But even these designers certainly can’t slow the flow.

Which means it’s also down to us – normal every day fashion-wearers – to become more actively involved in championing a less wasteful industry. This doesn’t have to mean a fashion-fast or forgoing the love of fashion. It simply means a mind-switch to become more aware of all the waste that dose creep out of our closets.

So for the new year, it’s time to fall in love with our closets and to have fun with our sustainable style. From wearing, restyling and repairing the clothes that we already own, swapping and selling the clothes we no longer love or have need for, to actively looking to preferentially buy clothes made with recycled fibres, or upcycled fabrics, or more sustainable raw materials, there are many fashion-forward ways to enjoy a closet with a cause.

Waste – is it ‘really’ in fashion? : Fashion Revolution (2024)

FAQs

Waste – is it ‘really’ in fashion? : Fashion Revolution? ›

The number of garments produced annually has doubled since 2000 and exceeded 100 billion for the first time in 2014 and an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste is created annually from the fashion industry. Shockingly, every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned globally.

Is waste really in fashion? ›

The short answer is: extremely. The long, and more detailed answer is: it's estimated that 92 million tons of textile waste is created annually by the fashion industry.

Why is there so much waste in the fashion industry? ›

A lot of the clothing waste comes from manufacturers — 13 million tons of textiles each year — and from clothing retailers themselves. Manufacturers overproduce the supply of clothing, and retailers end up overstocked — as seasons change, the unsold supply ends up thrown away to landfills.

How much waste is caused by fashion? ›

Global Fashion Industry Waste

Up to 100 billion garments are produced by the fashion industry every year. And each year, as much as 92 million tons of clothing ends up in landfills. Only 20% of textiles are collected for reuse or recycling globally. Almost 60% of all clothing material is actually plastic.

How wasteful is the fast fashion industry? ›

Each wash and dry cycle, especially the latter, sheds microfilaments that move through our sewage systems and end up in waterways. It is estimated that half a million tons of these contaminants reach the ocean each year. That's the equivalent to the plastic pollution of more than 50 billion bottles.

How long do clothes take to decompose? ›

And when consumers throw away clothing in the garbage, not only does it waste money and resources, but it can take 200+ years for the materials to decompose in a landfill. During the decomposition process, textiles generate greenhouse methane gas and leach toxic chemicals and dyes into the groundwater and our soil.

How dirty is the fashion industry? ›

The fashion industry is one of the most polluting industries on the planet. According to the World Bank, 20 percent of water pollution globally is caused by textile processing, making it the second biggest polluter of freshwater resources on the planet.

Is fashion the biggest pollutant? ›

Fashion and its supply chain is the third largest polluting industry, after food and construction. It emitted 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, releasing 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide per year, more than the shipping and the aviation industry combined.

Is fashion the most polluting industry? ›

It might come as a surprise to some that the clothing and textiles industries are among the most polluting on the planet. However, the sector contributes as much as 10% of all greenhouse gas emissions in the world, as well as being responsible for various other types of air pollution.

How bad is fashion waste? ›

People with higher incomes generate on average 76% more clothing waste than people with lower incomes. Once textiles are discarded, 66% of them are sent to landfills in the U.S. where they decompose — some quickly and others over hundreds of years.

How can we overcome fashion waste? ›

Top 10 ways to reuse, reduce and recycle your clothes
  1. Increase the number of times you wear your clothes. ...
  2. Repair your existing clothes. ...
  3. Look after your clothes. ...
  4. Buy quality over quantity. ...
  5. Buy clothes made out of eco-friendly materials. ...
  6. Rent. ...
  7. Shop preloved. ...
  8. Donate.

What industry wastes the most? ›

The construction industry is the industry that generates the most waste. Metal, paper, plastics, rubber, wood, glass, and more all get used in construction. All of the “odds and ends” left after a construction project end up getting tossed out and into the trash.

Why is it so hard to recycle clothes? ›

Clothes are endlessly variable and unpredictable. So they're not ideal for recycling technologies, which require a steady and consistent source material. Even a seemingly simple garment may contain multiple materials, with fiber blends such as cotton/polyester and cotton/elastane being common.

How fast fashion is ruining the environment? ›

As about 69% of clothes are made of synthetic fabrics, most of the wasted garments take hundreds of years to decompose in landfill. Natural fabrics, on the other hand, release methane in landfill—contributing to climate change.

Why fast fashion isn t sustainable? ›

The Dark Side of Fast Fashion

It dries up water sources and pollutes rivers and streams, while 85% of all textiles go to dumps each year. Even washing clothes releases 500,000 tons of microfibres into the ocean each year, the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles.

Is the fashion industry the second largest polluter in the world? ›

Globally, the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry after the oil and gas sector. Responsible for 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gas emissions annually, every UK household, as a result of their clothing consumption, produces the equivalent emissions of driving a modern car for 6,000 miles.

What fabric does not decompose? ›

Non-biodegradable clothes are manufactured synthetic textiles including polyester, spandex, nylon, and rayon[*]. It may take between 20 to 200 years to fully biodegrade these textiles. Biodegradable Textiles: Cotton: Cotton is one of the most biodegradable fabrics you can have, especially if it is 100% cotton.

Do clothes decompose when buried? ›

Also around this time, the molecular structures that hold your cells together break away, so your tissues collapse into a watery mush. And in a little over a year, your cotton clothes disintegrate, as acidic body fluids and toxins break them down. Only the nylon seams and waistband survive.

What fabric decomposes the fastest? ›

Cotton is one of the easiest fabrics to decompose, especially if it's 100% cotton. In the right compost, the material should be gone in a week to five months.

Is there slavery in the fashion industry? ›

From the pickers harvesting the cotton to the yarn spinners and the workers manufacturing the garments – slavery and exploitation exists at all stages in the making of our clothes. Across the garment and textile industry, exploitation includes: forced labour.

What fashion is most polluting? ›

Garments made from polyester and other synthetic fibers are a prime source of microplastic pollution, which is especially harmful to marine life.

Is it ethical to buy from Shein? ›

The environmental impact of SHEIN is one of the primary issues. SHEIN manufactures a tonne of apparel as a fast-fashion company, much of it is produced from synthetic materials that do not biodegrade. Also, the business's manufacturing and shipping methods could pollute the air and water.

What industry is the biggest polluter in the world? ›

Top polluting sector: fossil fuels

It is no surprise that the fossil fuels sector is the most polluting in the world. Despite this knowledge, emissions from fossil fuels keep increasing. After a brief decline during the Covid 19 pandemic, they grew by 1% in 2022, reaching 40.5 gigatons of CO2.

Is Gucci bad for the environment? ›

Environmental impact

Let's start with some encouraging news: Gucci's environmental rating is “Good”.

Why is fashion one of the world's top pollution? ›

One is cheap materials with the industry using a lot of such materials — along with toxic dyes — to create its clothes, “making it one of the largest polluters of clean water”.

Is the fashion industry toxic? ›

Environmental Cost of Toxic Fashion

Potentially harmful chemicals are commonly used in the dyeing and bleaching of new clothes. During that process, harmful chemicals also find their way into rivers, contaminating drinking water and polluting oceans.

Why is fast fashion so polluting? ›

Fast fashion pollution

Fast fashion relies on cheap, disposable clothing that is produced quickly and sold at low prices, encouraging consumers to buy and discard clothing at an alarming rate. As a result, landfills are overflowing with discarded clothing, and textile waste is piling up.

Where do unsold clothes go? ›

Many shops sell it to discount stores like TK Maxx, or online discounters like the Outnet. Others launch periodic online sales of what needs to go, or have their own outlet stores that sell last season's merchandise at a discount. What happens to unsold clothes in other circ*mstances is they're donated to foundations.

What is fashion waste called? ›

Definition of Textile waste

It is one kind of worthless or useless or defective material. So textile wastage can be defined as the material that becomes unusable or worthless after the end of the production process of any textile product.

What happens to recycled clothes? ›

Zippers and buttons are removed and the fabrics are cut into smaller pieces. The shredded fabrics are granulated and shaped into pellets. These are then melted and used to create fibres which can be used to make new polyester fabrics!

How can we fix the fashion industry? ›

Thank you so much for buying something through our link, as we may earn a commission that supports us.
  1. Buy less fast fashion. ...
  2. Buy higher-quality clothing. ...
  3. Buy from ethical fashion brands. ...
  4. Shop second-hand clothing. ...
  5. Rent your clothes for special occasions. ...
  6. Swap pieces with friends and family. ...
  7. Reuse, repurpose, and up-cycle.

How can I be stylish and fashionable without waste? ›

How to be more stylish
  1. Don't buy something for just one occasion. ...
  2. Don't buy or keep something that doesn't fit. ...
  3. Don't buy or keep something that doesn't suit you. ...
  4. Don't buy something just because it's a bargain. ...
  5. When you buy something, get rid of something else. ...
  6. Clothes swap with your most stylish friends.
Jan 3, 2023

Why is reducing fashion waste important? ›

~80% of all secondhand clothing is downcycled, exported or landfilled. The average consumer now buys 60% more pieces of clothing than 15 years ago and keeps each item for half as long. $500b of value is lost every year due to lack of recycling and clothes thrown into landfills before ever being sold.

Which industry is the most toxic? ›

The iron and steel industry produces large quantities of wastewater contaminated with varying types of toxins such as heavy metals, suspended solids, oil, and grease.

Which country is the most wasteful? ›

As a nation, Americans generate more waste than any other nation in the world with 4.5 pounds (2.0 kg) of municipal solid waste (MSW) per person per day, fifty five percent of which is contributed as residential garbage.

Who is the biggest contributor to waste? ›

The new analysis found that the US produces more plastic waste than any other nation, generating about 42 million metric tons every year, which amounts to 130kg (287 pounds) per person. In total, the country produces almost twice as much as China, and more than all the countries in the EU combined.

What clothes Cannot be recycled? ›

5 Clothing Items That Can't Be Recycled
  • Blended Fabrics. While most fabrics, be it natural or synthetic can be recycled, those that are made out of a blend or have a unique composition are next to impossible to recycle. ...
  • Wet Or Unclean Clothes. ...
  • Anything With Fixtures. ...
  • Embellished Clothes. ...
  • Recycled Polyester.
Feb 20, 2022

Why can't cotton be recycled? ›

Cotton must be blended with other fibers to be made into new yarn for strength and durability, and therefore cannot continuously be recycled.

When should you throw out clothes? ›

Here are seven signs to consider when getting rid of clothes.
  1. It Has Stains, Holes, or a Smell. This might seem like an obvious sign. ...
  2. You No Longer Love It. ...
  3. It's From an Outdated Trend. ...
  4. It Hasn't Fit in a Year. ...
  5. You Haven't Worn It in a Year. ...
  6. It No Longer Fits Your Style. ...
  7. It's Uncomfortable.
Nov 13, 2020

How bad is fashion for the environment? ›

Today, in fact, fashion accounts for up to 10% of global carbon dioxide output—more than international flights and shipping combined, according to the United Nations Environment Programme. It also accounts for a fifth of the 300 million tons of plastic produced globally each year.

Is fashion one of the biggest polluters? ›

Fashion and its supply chain is the third largest polluting industry, after food and construction. It emitted 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, releasing 1.2 billion tonnes of carbon dioxide per year, more than the shipping and the aviation industry combined.

Is the fashion industry cruel? ›

The problem with cruelty in fashion

Wild animals are trapped, shot or confined in barren cages until their slaughter. All this suffering, just to transform them into a coat, bag or shoe. In the fur industry, species like foxes and mink are bred into a life of confinement before they are killed.

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