What is an Akoya Pearl? And Why Are Akoya Pearls So Special? - Assael (2024)

What is an Akoya Pearl and what makes Akoyas special? With the fashion world embracing pearls like never before, there is quite a buzz about pearls these days, prompting Vogue to ask earlier this year, “Are Pearls the New Diamonds?” With the pristine white wonders of mother nature showing up on runways, red carpets and IG feeds, everyone is talking pearls. And we do mean everyone – not just the ladies. This gender fluid gem has captured the limelight with both male and female celebrities, as fashion houses turn to pearls as a powerful symbol of status and sophistication.

Often this exciting pearl fashion revolution features the beautiful and classic Akoya Pearl. What is it? And what are the elements to look for when buying Akoya Cultured Pearls?

THE SCIENCE – Akoya Pearl Facts

What is an Akoya Pearl? And Why Are Akoya Pearls So Special? - Assael (1)

Clockwise from Upper Left – Assael Akoya ‘Silk’ Pearl Station Necklace, Akoya Oyster, Japanese Pearl Farm, Hand Sorting Akoya Pearls, Loose Akoya Pearls with High Luster

Akoya cultured pearls form in thePinctada Fucataoyster.These oysters are thriving in the hidden bays off the coast of Japan in the cold saltwater of the Pacific Ocean. All Assael Akoya pearls come from Japan.These pearls are harvested in the colder months from December to March and produce pearls with the highest thickness of nacre. (For more information aboutnacre, click here.) The highest quality Akoya Pearls grow in the ocean up to about two years to allow sufficient time for the pearl to form with thick nacre and wonderful luster.

The term “cultured pearl” really just means that a human being started the natural process of pearl formation. It is somewhat similar to artificial insemination. A nucleus gets inserted into the soft mantle tissue of an oyster by a highly trained pearl technician, and then Mother Nature takes over. The pearl forms around the nucleus in its natural process inside the oyster as it lives in the ocean. For more information on how pearls are formed, click here.

The Pinctada Fucata oyster is the smallest of the pearl-producing oysters, measuring about 3 to 5 inches in diameter. It, therefore, produces smaller pearls than the oysters that produce South Seas and Tahitian Pearls. Akoya Pearls generally range in size between 3 to 9mm, with the occasional rare 10 – 10.5mm sizes. The Akoya pearl is known for its superb luster and its perfectly round shape. Akoyas also have a beautiful color consistency, making them often the pearl of choice for a woman’s first strand of pearls.

HISTORY & NOMENCLATURE – Why Is It Called an Akoya Pearl?

What is an Akoya Pearl? And Why Are Akoya Pearls So Special? - Assael (2)

Timeline of Pearls in Fashion History – Pearls have never been out of style. L to R – Coco Chanel, Lucille Ball, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Princess Diana, Oprah Winfrey, Kendall Jenner in Versace scarf with pearls in Vogue (March 2020)

The Pinctada Fucata oyster mentioned above is more commonly referred to as the Akoya oyster. Because these pearls are formed in the Akoya oyster, the pearls are called Akoya pearls.

Akoyas were the first pearls ever to be cultivated. In 1893, a Japanese man developed a scientific process for cultivating pearls inside the Akoya oyster. At first, very few of these pearls made their way to Europe and even less to the United States. By the mid 20th Century, Assael had started distributing Akoya Pearls in America.

Cultured pearls revolutionized the world of fine jewelry, making pearls more readily available to women of all types. Before cultured pearls, only natural pearls had been available, so the supply was severely limited and often reserved for royalty. With cultured pearls becoming available to the general public, the fashion worlds in New York, Paris and Milan took note.

In the 1920s, Coco Chanel made Akoya pearl strands a must-have accessory for debutantes and socialites throughout Europe, affirming that “a woman needs ropes and ropes of pearls.” In the 1940s, U.S. soldiers returning home from World War II brought back strands of Akoya pearls for their wives and girlfriends, creating a craze for Akoyas in America, too. These perfectly round pearls with incomparable luster became a staple accessory to almost every outfit.

In the 1960s, “Jackie O” (Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis) made pearls synonymous with sophistication and class. In the ‘80s, Princess Diana’s fairytale love affair with pearls turned them into a beloved jewel in every woman’s wardrobe. More recently, formidable women of all ages from Oprah and Kamala Harris to Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner have used Akoyas and/or South Seas as ‘power pearls’ to convey a uniquely feminine aspect of power – that women can be soft and beautiful while also maintaining incredible strength.

MAGNIFICENCE – What To Look For When Buying Akoya Pearls?

What is an Akoya Pearl? And Why Are Akoya Pearls So Special? - Assael (3)

Clockwise from Upper Left – Assael Signature Yellow Gold and White Gold Clasps, Assael Akoya Pearl Strand Select-A-Length Chart, Akoya Pearl Size Chart, Strands and Loose Akoya Pearls

According to the Gemological Association of America (GIA), “Akoya cultured pearls are the most familiar type of saltwater cultured pearls to most people in the U.S. and other western markets.” Akoya pearls are typically the first pearl strand a woman receives or the first pair of pearl earrings with which she starts her pearl collection. When buying Akoya pearls, be sure to examine the following hallmarks of value.

LUSTER

The Akoya is a truly classic pearl. It is known for its incredibly high luster. The higher the luster, the more valuable the pearl. So, when shopping for Akoya pearls, be sure to try the pearls on. See how they look on your skin. The beautiful glow of Akoya pearls will reflect that shine onto your skin and bring a beautiful radiance to your face.

SURFACE COMPLEXION

Akoya pearls also have very clean, smooth complexions. Look for pearls that are blemish free, allowing the full reflection of light.

COLOR

Akoya cultured pearls come in various shades of white to white-pink. Select the color that looks best with your skin. Again, remember to try the pearls on. Color is a purely personal preference. The pinkish white hues can be very flattering. Also, think about your wardrobe – if you wear a lot of black or black and white combinations, you might prefer a whiter Akoya pearl strand. Pure white strands are rarer and can be difficult to find.

SIZE

Choose a size of Akoya pearl in proportion to your facial features. If you have a petite face with small eyes and nose, you might look best in a smaller millimeter size of Akoya pearls like a graduated strand between 5 to 8mm. If you have an oval face shape and wear longer hair, you may need a larger pearl to command attention – like an 7 or 9mm.

SHAPE

Akoya Pearls are also prized for their perfectly round to near-round shapes. Compare various strands side by side to see how perfectly round the pearls are and how much luster they have. Perfectly round pearls have higher value.

STRINGING & CLASPS

When shopping for Akoya Pearls, the silk string should always match the color of the pearls and not distract the eye. You can also examine the knots in between the pearls to note how sturdy they are. Lastly, be sure to study the clasp. You will want to ensure that the clasp is secure and comfortable, as well as beautiful. Necklaces tend to move on the neck, so you will not want to keep turning the clasp to the back. Also, make sure you can open and close the clasp yourself.

Akoya pearls will certainly become a treasured part of your fine jewelry wardrobe, together with your favorite strand of even more distinctive South Sea Pearls. The luster of Akoya Pearls is remarkable and will make even your darkest days a little brighter. Assael is proud to offer a selection of the finest Akoya pearls available in the world, to ensure that every woman who wears them will shine in their gorgeous glow. Discover some beautiful Akoya pearl designs here.

Feature image at top: Clockwise from upper Left – Pucci F/W 2020, Assael Sunset Akoya Pearl Necklace, Akoya Pearl Geometrix Earrings by Sean Gilson for Assael, Pucci F/W 2020, Award-Winning Flex Bangle by Sean Gilson for Assael, Street Style Layered Pearl Necklaces at Fashion Week

If you liked this, please follow us on Instagram @assaelpearls. You might also like:

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What is an Akoya Pearl? And Why Are Akoya Pearls So Special? - Assael (2024)

FAQs

Are Akoya pearls worth the money? ›

Valuable Pearl Attributes

Because Akoya pearls have become The Standard when it comes to the classic white pearl necklace, and meet the higher quality standards for pearls (particularly in the Luster and Shape category), they are more highly valued by consumers and the Professional Jewelry market.

What is the difference between Akoya and Mikimoto pearls? ›

An important factor to look out for is the thickness of the nacre as this determines the pearl's luster. Only the Akoya cultured pearls with the highest quality and luster can be bestowed with the name “Mikimoto Pearl.”

What are Akoya pearls? ›

The akoya pearl is a saltwater cultured pearl from the akoya oyster (Pinctada fucata martensii). Because akoya are the most abundant type of saltwater pearl with the longest cultured history, information on akoyas is abundant!

What is the most important value factor of an Akoya pearl? ›

Akoya pearls are known for their color, shape and most of all their luster. Luster is the quantity and quality of light that reflects from the surface of the pearl. This is the most important factor in choosing an akoya pearl necklace. It's what makes the pearls shine.

What color Akoya pearl is best? ›

Traditionally White Colors: the Akoya pearl offers many other color varieties other than white, but the most sought after pearl color is the traditional white hue, tinged with overtones of rose, silver and cream.

How can you tell if Akoya pearls are real? ›

One of the simplest and easiest ways to tell if your Akoya pearl is real or not is to do something called “the tooth test”. All you have to do is softly rub the pearl against your tooth. If the pearl is natural or cultured, the texture you will feel will be gritty and rough.

What are high quality Akoya pearls called? ›

Hanadama pearls are widely considered the "ferrari of pearls". A top quality Hanadama pearl necklace is about as good as it gets. The typical size range of Akoya pearls ranges from 6mm - 9.5mm, with 7.5-8.0mm being the most popular pearl sizes.

What is the highest quality pearl? ›

Cultured Akoya pearls are graded using the Japanese Pearl Grading System, using the A-AAA Scale with the addition of Hanadama Akoya pearls representing the highest pinnacle of the pearl type. The A-AAA system evaluates pearls according to Surface Quality, Luster, and perfection of Shape (roundness and symmetry).

Can you wear Akoya pearls everyday? ›

The benefits of wearing pearls are endless, from improving their quality to elevating a simple outfit with very little effort. As such, we'd encourage you to wear your pearls as much as you can – every day if you wish!

Can you shower with Akoya pearl? ›

If possible, store them wrapped in a soft cloth or in a soft-lined container, pouch, or jewelry box, but not in an airtight container because the pearls need to "breathe". It is strongly recommended not to get your pearls wet by either showering or swimming (ocean, swimming pool or Jacuzzi hot tubs).

Which is better pearl Akoya or South Sea? ›

South Sea Pearls of 9.5 – 10.5 mm sizes are more common. But the smaller Akoya oyster has a hard time producing a pearl as large as 9.5 – 10.5 mm, making these pearls much rarer, hence the higher price. Akoya Pearls are preferred for someone wanting a bright white/pink lustrous strand in this “overlap” size range.

What does Akoya mean in Japanese? ›

New Word Suggestion. The Japanese term for natural or cultured pearls that come from the akoya-gai mollusk.

How can you tell if a pearl is high quality? ›

The luster of good quality pearls is sharp and bright. You should be able to see your reflection clearly on the surface of a pearl. Any pearl that appears too white, dull or chalky, is of low quality.

Are Akoya or freshwater pearls better? ›

When compared to other varieties, such as Tahitian and South Sea, Akoya pearls definitely offer good value for money without compromising on beauty. Freshwater pearls lack the deep, beautiful gleam of an Akoya. However, the palette of colors and attractive pricing makes them a great option for many people.

What is the rarest pearl color in the world? ›

Naturally colored blue pearls are the rarest pearl colors in the world (with one or two exceptions, which we will get to below). The color has existed in pearls for decades, but only recently have naturally colored blue pearls gained popularity in the modern pearl jewelry markets.

Are Akoya pearls freshwater or saltwater? ›

Akoya and freshwater pearls are both cultured pearls. Akoya pearls come from saltwater oysters, while freshwater pearls come from mussels in rivers and lakes. Check the size and shape—Akoya pearls are smaller and rounder than freshwater pearls, which tend to be larger and slightly irregular.

How much is Akoya pearl? ›

Akoya Pearl Prices Range from $100 - $10,000

Akoya pearls tend to be the smaller-sized pearls of all the major pearl types, and range in size from 4.0mm at their smallest to 9.5mm and rarely 10.0mm at their very largest and rarest size.

What country do Akoya pearls come from? ›

These oysters are found in copious quantities in many parts of the world. However, in most cases, Akoya pearls are cultivated primarily in the ocean waters off the coasts of Japan and China. Saltwater pearls, especially the Akoya variant, are held in high regard around the world.

What is the mother of pearl? ›

Mother-of-pearl is the iridescent inside lining of a mollusk shell. It is most commonly found in three types of mollusks—pearl oysters, freshwater mussels, and abalone.

Do pearls yellow with age? ›

Did you know that pearls can change colors? It's something that can happen over time. White pearls slowly turn yellow as they age. Many people don't understand how this happens, or how to prevent it.

Is Akoya and Mikimoto the same? ›

Mikimoto Pearls is a brand name of a jeweler that specializes in creating pearl jewelry from Akoya pearls. The company pioneered cultured pearls in 1893 and is now the biggest name in luxurious, high-quality jewelry featuring cultured pearls.

What is special about Mikimoto pearls? ›

Mikimoto has its own proprietary grading system for their pearls, and only carries pearls with excellent luster and thick, fine quality nacre. Mikimoto's Japanese Akoya pearls are sourced from the top 5% of each yearly harvest, and then sorted into their various grades from there.

What is the most sought after pearl? ›

South Sea. South Sea pearls are often referred to as the Rolls Royce of pearls. They are the largest and most valuable pearls grown today, with average sizes ranging from 10 to 15 millimeters. South Sea pearls grow in a large pearl oyster native to Australia, the Philippines, Myanmar and Indonesia.

How do you tell if your pearls are Mikimoto? ›

How do I know that my pearl jewelry is Mikimoto? You can always identify Mikimoto jewelry by our trademark, which is either the outline of an oyster or the Mikimoto name engraved on every piece. This engraved mark can be found in the following locations: Necklaces and bracelets: back of clasp.

Which pearls have the best Lustre? ›

Akoya pearls are known around the world as having the highest quality luster of all pearl types. The luster is so sharp, shiny and reflective that Akoya pearls are often described as having “Mirror-sharp” or “Ball-bearing” luster.

What happens to pearls if not worn? ›

Leaving pearl jewelry in a security box for long periods may cause pearls to dehydrate, so enjoy them frequently. There is a saying that “pearls want to be worn,” and it is true.

Why can't you get pearls wet? ›

Do not submerge your pearls in water - no showers, no dishes, no swimming. The chlorine in the water will eat away at the epoxy securing the pearls to their mountings, and soaking the silk your pearls are strung on causes it to stretch out and break early.

What are the rules about wearing pearls? ›

The etiquette on wearing a pearl necklace during the day, traditionally, is to wear a single pearl stand with a blouse. Over the years, as with so many things, the rules have gone out the window and pearls are no exception! The joy of owning pearl necklaces is that they really do with everything, on every occassion.

Are Akoya pearls quality? ›

The Akoya is a truly classic pearl. It is known for its incredibly high luster. The higher the luster, the more valuable the pearl. So, when shopping for Akoya pearls, be sure to try the pearls on.

What kind of pearl is worth the most? ›

South Sea Pearls are the most prized cultured pearls in the world. They're farmed in the largest pearl oyster Pinctada maxima in Australia, Burma, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Is Akoya and mikimoto the same? ›

Mikimoto Pearls is a brand name of a jeweler that specializes in creating pearl jewelry from Akoya pearls. The company pioneered cultured pearls in 1893 and is now the biggest name in luxurious, high-quality jewelry featuring cultured pearls.

What type of pearls does the queen wear? ›

Elizabeth loved the three-strand pearl necklace so much that she had an identical one made. In 1953, a third three-stand pearl necklace joined her collection. It was a gift from Emir of Qatar and the only difference among the three was that this version sported a diamond clasp.

How much does Akoya pearl cost? ›

Akoya Pearl Prices Range from $100 - $10,000

Akoya pearls tend to be the smaller-sized pearls of all the major pearl types, and range in size from 4.0mm at their smallest to 9.5mm and rarely 10.0mm at their very largest and rarest size.

How can you tell if pearls are cheap? ›

Fake pearls will often look flat or even “painted”. High quality pearls will have a deep luster, almost glowing from within. This is the difference between a shiny marble and a pearl's luster that shows depth.

Which pearl is best to wear? ›

Most astrologers advise people to wear saltwater pearls.
...
The commonly suggested pearls for astrology are:
  • South Sea Pearls.
  • Saltwater Keshi Pearls.
  • Basra Pearls.

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