Japanese denim has a reputation among jeans lovers for being the best in the world, and is a product category that UNIQLO take pride in producing. Many of our jeans, including our selvedge denim, are made by Kaihara, a denim manufacturer in Hiroshima, who we have been in partnership with since 1998.
Established in 1893, Kaihara is Japan’s top denim manufacturer. The most famous denim that we create in collaboration with Kaihara is selvedge denim, woven using old-fashioned shuttle looms. The proof is in the red stitching that is revealed when the hem is folded back.
Why shuttle looms?
The weave created by a shuttle loom is intense and strong, making selvedge denim more durable than other, more modern, weaving methods. Selvedge gets its name from its “self-edge”: the finished edges that do not fray. Jeans made from selvedge denim have no raw edges that need to be finished on the side seams. You may have seen wearers of selvedge denim wearing their jeans turned up at the ankle to show off those instantly recognisable finished seams.
As well as being more durable, selvedge denim is often sold untreated and raw - meaning selvedge jeans can be quite stiff when you first wear them. The beauty of this is that, as you wear them, these jeans will become entirely your own. The denim will fade and crease according to how you move and what you put in your pockets, but it will also soften to fit your body.
Although the origins of denim are found in workwear and utility, the Japanese approach denim as an artform. Selvedge denim can only be woven at a width of 31", about half the width of non-selvedge denim, meaning a much more exclusive fabric. The selvedge denim edge usually features signature red stitching, although other colours are also used.
Shop men’s jeans and discover the whole collection.
As a seasoned enthusiast in the realm of denim, particularly Japanese selvedge denim, my expertise stems from a profound understanding of the intricate details that set this textile apart. The article dated March 23, 2023, delves into the world of LifeWear, specifically highlighting UNIQLO's pride in producing Japanese denim, renowned among jeans aficionados as the finest globally.
The focal point of UNIQLO's denim prowess lies in its collaboration with Kaihara, a distinguished denim manufacturer in Hiroshima, Japan, with a history dating back to 1893. This partnership, initiated in 1998, underscores the brand's commitment to quality and tradition. Kaihara, Japan's premier denim manufacturer, is recognized for its role in crafting UNIQLO's selvedge denim, a distinctive variety woven using old-fashioned shuttle looms.
The mention of shuttle looms in the article is crucial to understanding the unique characteristics of Japanese selvedge denim. Shuttle looms, with their intensive and robust weaving technique, contribute to the durability of selvedge denim. The term "selvedge" itself refers to the finished edges that do not fray, a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship involved. The red stitching visible when the hem is folded back serves as proof of authenticity and adherence to traditional techniques.
UNIQLO's choice of shuttle looms for crafting selvedge denim is not arbitrary. The article explains that the weave produced by shuttle looms is more enduring compared to modern weaving methods. The resulting jeans exhibit no raw edges, eliminating the need for finishing on the side seams. Wearers often showcase the finished seams by turning up the jeans at the ankle, highlighting the distinctive characteristics of selvedge denim.
Beyond its durability, selvedge denim is distinguished by its untreated and raw nature. This means that selvedge jeans may initially feel stiff, but as they are worn, they gradually conform to the wearer's body. The denim evolves, fading and creasing according to the wearer's movements and pocket use, creating a personalized and unique aesthetic.
The article delves into the artistry of Japanese selvedge denim, emphasizing that, while denim originated as workwear, the Japanese approach it as an art form. Selvedge denim, woven at a width of 31", half that of non-selvedge denim, is inherently more exclusive. The edge of selvedge denim typically features signature red stitching, although other colors may be used, adding a visual element to the exclusivity of the fabric.
In conclusion, the article provides a comprehensive overview of UNIQLO's commitment to Japanese selvedge denim, detailing the craftsmanship involved, the choice of materials and techniques, and the unique qualities that make this denim a coveted and personalized fashion statement.
Selvedge gets its name from its “self-edge”: the finished edges that do not fray. Jeans made from selvedge denim have no raw edges that need to be finished on the side seams. You may have seen wearers of selvedge denim wearing their jeans turned up at the ankle to show off those instantly recognisable finished seams.
Two things have given selvedge denim a reputation as being better than non-selvedge: quality (yarn quality, dyeing techniques, quality control, and design) and one distinct style advantage. In terms of quality, the denim mills that have chosen to produce selvedge understand and value the history of denim.
But the selvage we refer to is obtained when a fabric is woven on a shuttle loom. An inherent trait of shuttle loom woven fabric is that the selvage is “self-bound” and cannot unravel, which is the key difference compared to denim made on “shuttle-less looms”.
Selvedge denim has a tighter weave than regular denim, so it will have a different texture and feel that selvedge enthusiasts prefer. And the weight can vary from medium to heavy.
'Selvedge' is the name for the higher-quality, harder-to-produce type of denim that is typically sold and worn unwashed. You can spot it on the cuffs of jeans. The selvedge in denim is usually white and often has a coloured yarn in the middle.
Around 1984, Cone Mills adopted a more modern, economical wide loom, doubling the width of its denim that could be cut in the middle and eliminating the need for selvedge.
Similarly, selvedge denim can be machine washed according to the care tag, but if you want to hold on to more of that indigo we would still recommend hand washing in lukewarm water with a gentle cleaner. Whichever method you choose, be sure to rinse all the cleaner out of your jeans before hanging them up to dry.
Raw denim is typically 100% cotton and can still be made into various shapes and styles. Clothing made from “selvage” fabric is known to last longer because it's produced on a shuttle loom, which creates a tighter weave than the modern looms used for mass-manufactured denim.
Selvedge denim stretches with time, so buy a slim straight-cut pair a size smaller than usual. "You want a pair that's a bit snug at first in the waist," says Paul O'Neill, senior designer at Levi's Vintage Clothing. Find jeans with just enough room to squeeze a finger between your body and the waistband.
Selvedge looms need constant maintenance and skilful operators. This kind of skilled labour doesn't come cheap. The tailors who assemble the jeans must also be highly skilled, and they too need heavy-duty sewing machines that can handle the heavy denim.
At the core of Japanese denim resides a steadfast dedication to craftsmanship. Japanese manufacturers take great pride in their diligent attention to detail and uphold traditional production techniques. Each denim piece is carefully crafted by skilled artisans, ensuring exceptional quality that stands the test of time.
For a selvedge denim that is 100% cotton, then set your iron to a high heat (cotton) setting using steam. If your selvedge has any stretch in it, you will need a cooler iron setting. To protect your jeans use a tea towel cloth between the iron and the jeans.
Cons. They take a while to break in. Raw selvedge denim feels extremely stiff – it's not the kind of thing you'll put on and feel cozy in. You have to wear them basically every day for at least three months to break them in.
Selvedge, also called “selvage” or "self-edge," is made on a shuttle loom, creating a narrower fabric with a tighter weave. The result is more durable and heavy-weight denim with a pronounced ridged edge. Selvedge denim gets its name from colored lines that run along the out-seam edge (generally red or orange).
A good rule of thumb is to hold off on that first wash until you've crossed the 150- wear line, but we like to push it just a little further than this, aiming for six months of wear. By this point, the thighs should have what looks like a glossy topcoat that glints in the light at certain angles.
This is due to their superior production output and ability to create cheaper fabric. Despite this, the Shuttle loom remains the preferred choice for Japanese craftsmen and global consumers alike who appreciate the unique characteristics that can only be found with denim made on the Shuttle loom.
The simple answer is that selvage denim requires craftsmanship. The production process itself is signified by its slower production speed, and lower output.
In summation, selvedge denim can be raw, but raw denim is not always selvedge denim. Here's all you need to remember: Selvedge denim has to do with the weaving process, it has a “self edge.” Whereas raw denim just means that it hasn't been washed and processed after coming off of the loom.
Address: Suite 237 56046 Walsh Coves, West Enid, VT 46557
Phone: +59115435987187
Job: Education Supervisor
Hobby: Genealogy, Stone skipping, Skydiving, Nordic skating, Couponing, Coloring, Gardening
Introduction: My name is Ms. Lucile Johns, I am a successful, friendly, friendly, homely, adventurous, handsome, delightful person who loves writing and wants to share my knowledge and understanding with you.
We notice you're using an ad blocker
Without advertising income, we can't keep making this site awesome for you.
