What TIME Got Wrong About the Invention of Blue Jeans (2024)

As origin stories go, TIME’s account of how Levi Strauss came up with the idea for his trademark denim pants is hard to beat. Here’s how the magazine told it in a 1950 story on Levi Strauss & Co.’s 100th anniversary:

When 20-year-old Levi Strauss sailed from Manhattan round Cape Horn to San Francisco in 1850 to seek a fortune in the gold fields, he carried a roll of canvas in his baggage. He intended to sell it to a tentmaker to get enough cash for a grubstake. But when he got ashore, the complaint of a friendly miner gave him a better idea. “Pants don’t wear worth a hoot up in the diggins,” said the miner. “Can’t get a pair strong enough to last no time.”

Levi promptly went into the clothing business. He had a tailor cut a pair of trousers from his canvas roll, and soon the miner was strolling all over town, boasting how strong were these “pants of Levi’s.” With one satisfied customer, Strauss found he had a steady stream of men who wanted “Levis.” In a shop on San Francisco’s California Street, he began making dozens of pairs of the waist-high overalls which defied the wear & tear of bronc-riding, gold-mining and plain ordinary living.

Years later, the article continued, a miner known only as “Alkali” annoyed his tailor by regularly carrying rocks around that broke his pocket seams. The tailor got the idea to use rivets on the corners of the pockets for stabilization; those rivets were the source of the idea for Strauss’ signature rivets.

Alas, the real story doesn’t quite measure up. As the company tells it, Strauss went West to open a dry-goods store for gold miners; dry goods were the family business, established by his brothers before Levi even got to the United States. To be fair, he did sell cloth—but as a businessman, not an ingenious fortune-seeker. Furthermore, the crucial tailor tip-off about the rivets came from a customer of the San Francisco Levi Strauss & Co. store, who was looking for a business partner to back the idea. On this day, May 20, in 1873, Strauss and his partner, Jacob Davis, were given a patent for work pants strengthened with rivets—the first example of what we now know as blue jeans.

By 1950, per TIME’s count, Levi’s had made 95 million pairs. (The going rate in 1950 was $3.50 a pop.) As for Strauss, he died in 1902.

Read the full 1950 story, here in the TIME Vault: Iron Bottoms

Write to Lily Rothman at lily.rothman@time.com.

What TIME Got Wrong About the Invention of Blue Jeans (2024)

FAQs

What is the myth of the invention of blue jeans? ›

A popular myth is that Strauss initially sold brown canvas pants to miners, later dyed them blue, turned to using denim, and only after Davis wrote to him, added rivets. Initially, Strauss's jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by factory workers, miners, farmers, and cattlemen throughout the North American West.

When were blue jeans invented? ›

An immigrant and tailor named Jacob Davis teamed up with dry goods merchant Levi Strauss to patent the first riveted blue jeans in 1873.

What is the significance of denim jeans late 1950's to early 1960's? ›

Naturally, everyone wanted to emulate these idols. Culturally, jeans became a symbol of the youth rebellion during the 1950s and 1960s as college students started wearing them as a protest against the Vietnam War and the formality of the establishment.

When did the story of jeans begin? ›

Denim as we know it today originated in 1860, when Levi Strauss & Co., which was making work pants out of a stiff canvas fabric, added serge de Nîmes to its product line at the request of customers wanting a softer, less chafing fabric.

Did African Americans invent blue jeans? ›

Enslaved BLACKS INVENTED BLUE JEANS. They did it in South Carolina and other Southern states in the mid-1700s by knowing how to skillfully process the indigo plant that had been skillfully cultivated by their ancestors 6,000 years ago!

Who really invented blue jeans? ›

What did men wear before jeans? ›

Until the end of the 18th century, bifurcated European garments took forms such as breeches, knickerbockers, and pantaloons. By 1820 trousers as they are known today had come into general use among men.

What was the original name for blue jeans? ›

With Strauss' financial backing, the men received U.S. Patent 139,121, "Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings," on May 20, 1873. Some consider that day to be the official "birthday" of blue jeans. The riveted pants, which the men originally called “waist overalls," were an instant hit with workers.

What was the original Colour of jeans? ›

Denim was originally dyed with indigo dye extracted from plants, often from the genus Indigofera. In South Asia, indigo dye was extracted from the dried and fermented leaves of Indigofera tinctoria; this is the plant that is now known as "true indigo" or "natural indigo".

What were jeans called before they were called jeans? ›

(Although, we should note that they were called “waist overalls” or “overalls” until 1960, when baby boomers adopted the name “jeans.”)

What did people wear before denim jeans? ›

Back in the day—the mid-1800s to be exact—dungarees a.k.a. "waist overalls" were all the rage. And not because they were stylish, but rather, practical.

What is the real purpose of jeans? ›

Jeans have been around for centuries. They were made as workwear and served a practical purpose: to be durable and functional. That's why they were made from denim; a durable, versatile and inexpensive fabric.

Who was the first woman to wear jeans? ›

Elizabeth Smith Miller is often credited as the first modern woman to wear pants.

What is the oldest jeans in history? ›

A pair of men's work pants that auction officials believe could be the world's oldest pair of jeans have sold for $114,000 (£92,010). The white pants were found in a sunken trunk in a shipwreck in 1857 near the coast of North Carolina. They feature a five-button fly and are believed to have belonged to a miner.

What do blue jeans symbolize? ›

Blue jeans symbolize informality, rugged individualism, and classless respect for hard work.

Who were pants originally made for? ›

Initially, trousers were a military garment. They came in the form of snug shorts or loose fitting trousers that closed at the ankles. In the late 14th century, they developed into tight trousers with attached foot coverings. This garment had the appearance of hose and was worn by knights underneath plate armour.

Where is the birthplace of blue jeans? ›

On May 20, 1873, San Francisco businessman Levi Strauss and Reno, Nevada, tailor Jacob Davis are given a patent to create work pants reinforced with metal rivets, marking the birth of one of the world's most famous garments: blue jeans.

What year were black jeans invented? ›

Our 1903 catalog featured black denim riveted pants, which would have made them our first line of “black jeans.” It's also possible they were offered even earlier, but that is the type of company information lost to the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and fire.

What do ripped jeans symbolize? ›

The rips and holes popularized during this decade were a symbol of the anger and non-conformity with society that defined the punk rock movement. Ripped jeans became synonymous with dissident cultures that traditional thinkers deemed outcasts of '“normal” society.

Why blue jeans are called blue? ›

Blue was the chosen color for denim because of the chemical properties of blue dye. Most dyes will permeate fabric in hot temperatures, making the color stick. The natural indigo dye used in the first jeans, on the other hand, would stick only to the outside of the threads, according to Slate.

Are blue jeans an American thing? ›

However, as far as modern-day people are concerned, the history of blue jeans really began when a Bavarian immigrant named Levi Strauss brought denim to America in 1853. He was based in San Francisco at the time, when the Gold Rush was at its peak.

Why don't men wear jeans anymore? ›

Even traditional men have moved away from denim. This is because their image of the man in blue jeans and white t-shirt has been replaced by the man in sportswear, streetwear or – at the other end of the scale – the man gone full suave.

What pants did cowboys wear before jeans? ›

Most cowboys, especially early on, didn't wear jeans, since Levi's didn't start selling blue jeans until 1873. Prior to that, cowboys and miners either wore riveted canvas pants or secondhand wool trousers.

When did men stop wearing knee pants? ›

From the fifteenth through the eighteenth centuries, knee breeches or pants were common daily wear for men. They were replaced during the 1800s by long trousers, which then became the standard accepted male attire.

What are 70s jeans called? ›

In the 1970s, bell-bottoms moved back into mainstream fashion via Brian Spiller; Sonny and Cher helped popularize bell-bottoms in the US by wearing them on their popular television show. The pants were typically flared from the knee down, with bottom leg openings of up to twenty-six inches.

How much did the first pair of Levi jeans cost? ›

They were awarded the patent in 1873 and blue jeans were born. Originally called “waist overalls,” they sold for $3 a pair in 1873 ($58 today). Sales soared to miners in the California gold rush. The original jeans had buttons for suspenders, and a button fly.

Are jeans an American thing? ›

They were first designed as workwear for labourers on the farms and mines of America's Western states in the late 19th Century. When a Nevada tailor called Jacob Davis was asked to make a pair of sturdy trousers for a local woodcutter, he struck upon the idea of reinforcing them with rivets.

Why are jeans called jeans? ›

Jeans, The Originals

The cloth itself was known as serge, so the phrase people used to describe it was serge de Nimes, which sounds quite a bit like "denim." Soldiers from Genoa, Italy — whom the French called "jeans" — began wearing the pants, and thus, the nickname was born.

What brand was the first jeans? ›

1853 – On May 1, German immigrant Levi Strauss founded the wholesale dry goods business, Levi Strauss & Co., in San Francisco after making money during the Gold Rush. This essentially makes Levi the first denim brand ever.

Did cowboys wear denim? ›

All traditional Wild West cowboy outfits use jeans as the pants. This material was made popular at the end of the 19th century. Likewise, it was common to wear denim shirts.

What are broken jeans called? ›

Distressed jeans are a type of jeans that have been purposely damaged or ripped. The damage can be in the form of holes, fraying, or even fading. Distressed jeans are usually made to look like they've been worn for a long time. Distressed jeans work for all body shapes and for both casual and dressy occasions.

What were 501 jeans originally called? ›

The pants - called “waist overalls” - have one back pocket with the Arcuate stitching design, a watch pocket, a cinch, suspender buttons and a rivet in the crotch.

Why do we say jeans not jean? ›

Like the words pants and trousers, jeans is always used in the plural form when referring to the pants. The word jean (without an s at the end) can be used to refer to the material and is typically used as a modifier to describe garments that are made of this material, as in jean jacket or jean shorts.

What did workers wear before jeans? ›

In Britain from the mid 19th century until the 1970s, dustmen, coalmen, and the manual laborers known as navvies wore flat caps, corduroy pants, heavy boots, and donkey jackets, often with a brightly colored cotton neckerchief to soak up the sweat.

Why do jeans need water? ›

Clothing. To create a pair of blue jeans, about 1,800 gallons of water are needed just to grow enough cotton for one pair. To grow enough cotton to create one t-shirt, 400 gallons of water are consumed.

Why is there a button on jeans? ›

Patented by Levi Strauss, these buttons are called rivets and they're there to make sure your denim holds up to the wear and tear your body puts it through as you move about each day. The idea dates back to 1829, when Strauss noticed that miners were complaining about their pants not lasting through long work days.

How many jeans should a woman own? ›

You should aim for 4 to 5 pairs of denim jeans, excluding shorts. It is a good number to meet your everyday needs, even though a woman own 7 pairs on average, and men 6.

Should you wash new Levis? ›

New denim, especially new dark wash denim, has a tendency to bleed its excess dye during its first wash. Put a light-colored piece of clothing in there with that bleeding dye and it could come out with a blue or black tint. To avoid that, we recommend washing your new jeans by themselves for the first go-round.

What is the oldest company still making jeans? ›

Levi Strauss & Co. is the oldest brand of jeans in the world, having been founded in 1853 by Levi Strauss in San Francisco, California.

How much did the oldest pair of Levi's sell for? ›

However, a salvaged pair of miner's pants from Mexican-American war veteran, merchant, and possible gold rusher John Dement stole the show, pulling in a total of $114,000—more than double their $50,000 estimate. Holabird said the trousers could be the earliest known example of Levi Strauss craftsmanship.

What is the oldest 501 Levi's? ›

As it turned out, Heath's 501® jeans were old, but not the oldest 501® jean discovered. The Calico 501® jean, discovered in the 1940s by a teenage girl in Southern California, dates to the 1890s. And in 2003, Levi Strauss & Co. acquired a 501® jean dubbed “XX” that dates to the late 1870s.

Why do Navy SEALs wear blue jeans? ›

Specifically during late 1970 and early 1971, SEALs donned Levi's jeans in combat. Denim could better withstand the rigors of the jungle climate, providing improved protection from leeches, mosquitos and other bugs, especially when combined with a layer of pantyhose underneath.

What color is denim before it is dyed? ›

Ecru refers to the color of undyed denim and is the natural hue of cotton. Jeans that have not been dyed with indigo are called ecru jeans; however, they are more difficult to find.

Why do blue jeans have yellow stitching? ›

The orange thread traditionally used to sew Levi Strauss blue jeans was intentionally selected to match the copper rivets that doubled the durability of the jeans.

What is the symbolism of blue jeans? ›

In the 1960s, denim came to symbolize a different kind of rebelliousness. Black activists donned jeans and overalls to show that racial caste and black poverty were problems worth addressing. “It took Martin Luther King Jr.'s March on Washington to make [jeans] popular,” writes the art historian Caroline A.

What is the origin of the word blue jeans? ›

This fabric was exported to other countries, and eventually known as the Blue from Genoa, or in French "Bleu de Gênes" since Genoa at that time belonged to France. The English adaptation of the expression then became “Blue Jeans”.

What is special about blue jeans? ›

Durable. Part of what makes blue jeans practical is their durability. Blue jeans can withstand innumerable wears and washes, and they are just thick enough to hold up during active and heavy-duty work. Blue jeans are a great pair of pants that can be worn regularly and still last a long time.

What is the original color of jeans? ›

Denim was originally dyed with indigo dye extracted from plants, often from the genus Indigofera. In South Asia, indigo dye was extracted from the dried and fermented leaves of Indigofera tinctoria; this is the plant that is now known as "true indigo" or "natural indigo".

Why are blue jeans associated with American culture? ›

As reported this week in The Economist, “As far back as the 1930s, when the popularity of cowboy films helped jeans make the leap from workwear into the wardrobes of Hollywood stars, denim has been understood to stand for something larger about the American spirit: for rugged individualism, informality and a classless ...

What is the psychology behind ripped jeans? ›

The rips signified rebellion: early punks tore apart consumer goods as an expression of their anger towards society, and denim became a key part of this political statement. Celebrity devotees included The Sex Pistols, Iggy Pop and Bros, while stars such as Bananarama and Madonna helped popularise the trend for women.

Who came up with the idea of ripped jeans? ›

In 1870, a German businessman named Leob (known as Levi Strauss), the owner of Levi Strauss & Co., made the first pairs of known ripped jeans. Levi Strauss was also known for creating customizable trousers for working men.

Is it inappropriate to wear ripped jeans? ›

As etiquette guru Debby Mayne wrote for the Spruce, even just for casual Fridays, you should still try to look professional. She writes: “Jeans with holes take away from your professionalism. Even if they were ripped with intention, they're still not appropriate for the office.

What did blue jeans used to be called? ›

We made our first jeans out of denim — the traditional fabric for men's workwear. Within a very short time, the jean was a bona fide success. (Although, we should note that they were called “waist overalls” or “overalls” until 1960, when baby boomers adopted the name “jeans.”)

What is the oldest pair of jeans? ›

A pair of men's work pants that auction officials believe could be the world's oldest pair of jeans have sold for $114,000 (£92,010). The white pants were found in a sunken trunk in a shipwreck in 1857 near the coast of North Carolina. They feature a five-button fly and are believed to have belonged to a miner.

What is the oldest brand of jeans? ›

This essentially makes Levi the first denim brand ever. 1873 – On May 20, Latvian emigrant and tailor Jacob Davis and his fabric supplier Levi Strauss patent and manufacture the “XX” pants, which would later become known as the Levi 501. These are perhaps the world's first pair of jeans.

Which color is best for blue jeans? ›

White and grey are the two most suitable colors for a light blue jeans combination. You can also try on some of the dark blue shades or black colored shirts with your light blue jeans. Try to avoid any funky or bright-colored shirt, as it won't go well with the look.

Why are blue jeans so expensive? ›

Expensive jeans are made from expensive fabrics because high-quality fabrics demand a high price. That quality can also require special care and treatment, bringing up our next section.

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