Why are we so fickle about corduroy? | CBC Life (2024)

Style

A look at why the 18th-century fabric keeps falling in and out of favour.

A look at why the 18th-century fabric keeps falling in and out of favour

Why are we so fickle about corduroy? | CBC Life (1)

Natalie Michie · CBC Life

·

Why are we so fickle about corduroy? | CBC Life (2)

For a simple design, corduroy has a complicated legacy. Since reaching the height of its popularity in the 1970s, the heavy, ribbed fabric has had a decidedly retro appeal. To some, it might conjure images of a vintage clothing catalogue or a stuffy professor — someone Cher Horowitz would deem "ensembly challenged." Despite the flak, cords hold a rotating residency at fashion's proverbial popular table. But when it comes to trends, no textile is quite as contentious — why?

Various style authorities have hailed corduroy's return every autumn for the last few years. It was a staple of the Fall 2022 collections, featured by labels like 6397, Khaite and Rachel Comey, and continues to appear in the Fall 2023 collections including Kenzo and Lovechild 1979. Pinterest Canada reported a recent spike in searches for corduroy pants, skirts, jackets and entire outfits. Vogue went as far as to ordain it a "cool girl" style. But even when corduroy is back in fashion's good graces, it feels conditional. Rules outlining the right and wrong ways to wear it imply that one faulty styling choice could make you look dorky, dated or just plain tacky.

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Alanna McKnight, a Toronto-based scholar and fashion historian, argued that it comes down to one (very loud) reason. "There's an auditory sensation of wearing corduroy," she said. (Growing up, the swish-swish sound from her textured pants rubbing together led to merciless teasing.) "It announces your arrival, basically.…

"We have gotten so used to, in the postmodern era, having clothing that doesn't have noise associated with it. Our clothes are very silent. And in the past, big silk dresses … would [rustle], and you would hear those coming a mile away." It's also become an emblem of working-class utilitarianism, which might be at the heart of the fashion world's fickle treatment of the textile.

Though typically associated with the 1970s, the first form of corduroy dates back to ancient Egypt. The fabric we know today, with its signature ribbed design, was born in 18th-century western England, where its sturdy, durable material made it a favourite among the working class. McKnight called it velvet's "spiritual cousin", as both materials have practically the same background stories and are made in similar ways. "With the rise of industrialization in the 19th century, people needed durable clothing — especially working-class people," she said. "Having something warm was also important." So while velvet has had a "regal luxury status" from early on, corduroy became a more functional fabric.

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Corduroy became fashionable again as a symbol of the anti-establishment ideals of the 1960s counterculture movement and peaked the following decade. After resurfacing during the grungeera of the 1990s, the regard for corduroy has waxed and waned. Because of its utilitarian past, corduroy was sometimes seen as less attractive, McKnight noted.

Why are we so fickle about corduroy? | CBC Life (3)

She says fashion tends to favour exclusive styles over accessible ones, otherwise known as conspicuous consumption. "It's to show people … that you have a certain level of wealth and taste and cultural understanding of what is appropriate and what people should have." Despite how many times it's reimagined, corduroy just can't shake its working-class image.

It seems, however, thanks to TikTok, that's begun to matter less. On the app, where new fashion trends are born every day, corduroy has appeared within a series of viral esthetics. One of them is Dark Academia, a quintessentially autumnal style that channels vintage collegiate dressing and romanticizes slouchy school-appropriate looks. Often paired with chunky sweaters and combat boots or mixed with other heavy statement pieces like wool, corduroy has been embraced on the gen-Z-dominated platform as a key textile for cold-weather outfits, sound effects and all.

Though it's tentatively back in vogue, McKnight said corduroy will keep falling in and out of fashion, just like it always has. "But I think we won't have to wait as long to see it again," she said. "I think the time between resurgences is getting shorter."

Perhaps corduroy always finds a way because it's both practical and symbolic. Either way, it has endured for centuries, and for that alone, it deserves a little more respect.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Why are we so fickle about corduroy? | CBC Life (4)

Natalie Michie

Natalie Michie is a Toronto-based writer who covers the intersection of fashion and pop culture. Find her on Instagram @nataliemichie and on TikTok @natalie_michie.

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    Why are we so fickle about corduroy? | CBC Life (2024)

    FAQs

    Why are we so fickle about corduroy? | CBC Life? ›

    Alanna McKnight, a Toronto-based scholar and fashion historian, argued that it comes down to one (very loud) reason. "There's an auditory sensation of wearing corduroy," she said. (Growing up, the swish-swish sound from her textured pants rubbing together led to merciless teasing.)

    What does corduroy symbolize? ›

    In fact, for much of the 19th century, corduroy was a symbol both of working-class identity and political radicalism.

    Is corduroy going out of style? ›

    In 2024, corduroy has lost much of its value as a material for work uniforms due to the arrival of denim, cotton twills and technical modern materials. Luckily for us, this means that corduroy has found its way into many contemporary autumn/winter collections.

    What's the point of corduroy? ›

    The first, and most, obvious reason that corduroy endures is because it is a feel-good fabric. A thick, often cotton-based yarn, corduroy is divided into “wales”, aka thick threads, that give the style its striped effect.

    Is corduroy classy? ›

    Corduroy pants are generally considered to be casual wear. Since the fabric is heavier and has a ribbed appearance, it's associated with cozy fall and winter fashion. However, this material has trended in more dressy looks over the years, especially in business casual settings.

    What is the deeper meaning of corduroy? ›

    Corduroy is a classic children's story that raises questions about broad and important issues that we encounter on a day-to-day basis: materialism, friendship, and belonging, and allows children to identify their own feelings as commonly encountered.

    What lesson does corduroy teach? ›

    The story serves as a beautiful reminder to readers of all ages that we are great just the way we are. Corduroy, the buttonless bear lets us know that we are worthy of appreciation and that true friends accept us, flaws and all.

    Are cords in style in 2024? ›

    Most fast-fashion retailers and sustainable brands have corduroy pants front and center in their winter collection. From Everlane's sustainable wide-leg corduroy pants to Free people's chocolate high-rise brown cotton corduroy pants, you will see this look everywhere you turn this winter 2024.

    What not to wear with corduroy pants? ›

    Of course, you can also overdo corduroy by accident; you should try not to wear a corduroy piece or article with other highly textured or patterned pieces. Above all else, corduroy pants, jackets, and other clothing give you more ways to experiment with your wardrobe, which is always a good thing.

    What season is corduroy worn? ›

    Corduroy is an optimal winter fabric because it's thick, soft, and can keep you warm in cold temperatures. The fabric is also extremely versatile which is why a variety of winter garments are constructed from it.

    Who is famous for wearing corduroy? ›

    Loved by musicians, artists and directors - it has been famously worn by Woody Allen, Bob Dylan, Pablo Picasso and Wes Anderson.

    What is a fun fact about corduroy? ›

    Some suggest it came from the French phrase Corde Du Roi, which translates to the king's cord. It is believed it was considered a material only to be worn by nobility and courtiers. Others think that it came simply from the surname Corderoy, as a result from someone who was involved in the early manufacture.

    What are the disadvantages of corduroy? ›

    Cons
    • It is thick and heavy fabric, so the thicker version is for trousers only.
    • Easily overdone if not careful, while getting an outfit of full corduroy fabric.
    Nov 16, 2018

    Why is corduroy not popular? ›

    Because of its utilitarian past, corduroy was sometimes seen as less attractive, McKnight noted. She says fashion tends to favour exclusive styles over accessible ones, otherwise known as conspicuous consumption.

    Does anyone still wear corduroy pants? ›

    Corduroy pants have always felt like a sister pant to jeans, just not quite as cool. But that's changing this fall, since the newest styles have made me look twice! If you've also noticed a lot more corduroy and wondered if corduroy pants are in fashion in 2023, the answer is yes!

    Why is corduroy so expensive? ›

    Corduroy is generally more expensive than fabrics made with similar materials due to its relatively complicated production process.

    What is the meaning of corduroy? ›

    : a durable usually cotton pile fabric with vertical ribs or wales. 2. : logs laid side by side transversely to make a road surface. corduroy.

    What is corduroy associated with? ›

    These days, garment manufacturers primarily use corduroy to make overalls (also known as dungarees), pants, and jackets.

    What is the meaning of cord pants? ›

    Corduroys are a kind of pants or trousers made from a soft, ridged fabric called corduroy. When jeans seem a little bit too casual, you might decide to wear your orange corduroys instead.

    What is the meaning of corduroy coat? ›

    a thick, cotton material woven with raised parallel lines on the outside, used esp. for jackets and pants. (Definition of corduroy from the Cambridge Academic Content Dictionary © Cambridge University Press)

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