Buttons pull your look together in the most literal way possible, but the number of jacket buttons can vary from style to style. Why?
Don’t we have enough to worry about matching shoes, choosing a lapel shape, or just deciding between a suit or tuxedo?
If you’re hip to traditional formalwear rules this won’t be news to you, but button counts were once an important way of establishing formality through design. Personal style wasn’t always as fluid as it is today, and if you look for it, you’ll find that some jackets still use button count to elevate formality.
Generally, the fewer the buttons on the closure, the more formal the jacket. Think of ultra-formal tailcoats: the jacket doesn’t even close! Tailcoats usually have some buttons, but none of them are functional.
Single-button jackets are the most formal in modern menswear, and not coincidentally, most single-button jackets are tuxedos or dinner jackets. Two-button jackets are more versatile but a little more casual, too. They can be dressed up or dressed down, from a co*cktail party to a black tie optional dress wedding. You can find modern tuxedos with two-button closures, but they’re most often used in suiting.
Three-button suit jackets are less common, and you rarely see three buttons on a tuxedo—they’re too casual. The outlier here is the double-breasted jacket. Despite having 4+ buttons, they’re generally considered more formal than a two-button jacket (and again, not all of the buttons are functional).
So how does your new-found “button smarts” help you get dressed? Now that you know the design intent behind button counts, forget it. Really.
Choose a jacket that appeals to you and compliments your body type. The only reason you might consider choosing a one-button over a two-button is if you’re attending a very formal event or a black tie wedding. Even then, it’s unlikely anyone’s going to publicly shame you for making a relatively small style choice. Do you—style shouldn’t be as rigid as a poly-blend suit.
Need more info about buttons? Talk to our style advice columnist, Mr. Buttons.
Related
FAQs
There are neither rules nor even general conventions that determine how many buttons should be on your jacket's cuffs. Some makers vary the number of buttons on their jackets based on the number of buttons on the front, if the jacket is single- or double-breasted, or if the jacket is a suit jacket or odd jacket.
What is the rule for 3 button jackets? ›
As you probably guessed, this rule is primarily for 3 button jackets. You can start by fastening the top button “Sometimes” as a personal preference when the middle button is also fastened. The second or middle button should “Always” be fastened, and the last or bottom button should always remain open.
How many buttons should a jacket have? ›
Traditionally, a suit jacket has had four sleeve buttons. This dates back to the Victorian era when jackets were often tailored with this number of buttons. Four buttons provide a classic and timeless look, and they are still widely used in modern suits. Four buttons are often considered a safe and conservative choice.
Why do some suit jackets have 3 buttons? ›
The classic 3-button:
the lapel roll only begins after the third button. The jacket closes higher, hides the tie a little more and the lapel is shorter.
Why do men only button one button on a suit jacket? ›
Men buttoned their suit jackets in a way that pleased them. A popular theory credits King Edward VII with starting the trend to leave the last button of a waistcoat, or vest, undone, in the 1900s. With a legendary appetite, Edward became so fat he couldn't do up the bottom button on his waistcoat.
What is the jacket rule? ›
Measuring to the end of the thumb
This rules states that the suit jacket should be able to be felt within the bent fingers of the wearer while arms hang down to the side. This means the bottom of the jacket fall to the end of the thumb (no, that is not where the figure of speech comes from).
Are three-button jackets still in style? ›
In conclusion, while some people may believe that the 3-button suit is an outdated trend, it is still a timeless style that can be worn by stylish men around the world. It is a classic look that has stood the test of time, and it can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion.
What are kissing buttons? ›
Kissing buttons are buttons that touch slightly as opposed to being spaced apart. Kissing buttons that are touching and slightly overlapping one another are known as kissing stacked buttons or 'waterfall' buttons. They are popular with Italian suits.
How many kissing buttons are there? ›
Four-Button Functional Kissing
This is a classic option in which the buttons overlap slightly (often referred to as 'kissing'), highlighting the custom and high-quality nature of the jacket. It is customary to wear this option with the last (bottom) button undone to demonstrate that the buttons are functional.
Do suit jackets have 3 buttons? ›
Three-button Suits
The 3-button jacket is also classic and can be well tailored, as in European style, or more casual and boxier, as in the traditional American cut. You have two options: Fasten just the middle. Attach both the middle and top buttons, but the bottom button always stays open.
Double-breasted suit with 4 buttons
The most traditional button stance. The double-breasted jacket 4×2 is very comfortable and it's perfect for your free time or a not-so-formal business meeting.
Who can wear a 3 button suit? ›
Three-Button Suit Style
Younger men who are on the thinner side may look towards three-button styles when choosing a new suit. This style also works well for individuals with athletic body types. If you are particularly tall and have felt awkward in a two-button suit, a three-button suit may be more flattering.
Why do you never do up the bottom button on a suit? ›
But where did the tradition come from? Legend goes that in the early 19th century, Britain's King Edward VII grew too fat for his suit and had to stop using the second button as a result. Not wanting to embarrass him, everyone followed.
Why don't men button the bottom button? ›
The tradition dates back to King Edward VII from the early 1900s. He unbuttoned the bottom of his waistcoat because he was too fat.
Is it OK to leave your suit jacket unbuttoned? ›
Buttoning Rules For Double-Breasted Suit Jackets
If you plan to leave some buttons undone, it is most traditional to fasten the top button. However, men who prefer a longer line have been leaving the lowest button undone, including members of the British royal family, so you're probably safe either way.
How does a 3 in 1 jacket work? ›
A 3 in 1 jacket typically consists of a waterproof and breathable outer jacket, also known as a shell, plus a warm, fleece-style jacket on the inside. They can be worn separately or zipped together, giving three possible configurations – perfect for changeable weather.
When a man is wearing a three buttoned jacket they should never button the bottom one? ›
Middle Button – always fasten the middle button when standing, and unbutton when sitting. This ties the look of a three-button jacket together, creating the shape and definition of the torso. Bottom Button – The last should never be buttoned, sitting or standing.
How many buttons should you leave open? ›
However, undoing more than two buttons to expose too much skin begins to look a little like a Lothario. Where's your gold medallion? Ergo, two buttons is the sweet spot.
Should I wear a 3 button suit? ›
A 3 button suit, as formal wear, will make you stand out from the crowd, be it at your workplace or the next party. This type of suit was the first-ever suit created at the very beginning of the introduction of suits. A perfect choice of suits for teenagers and men, 3 button suits can provide you with a dapper look.
