How to Wear a Suit Unbuttoned (2024)

by Peter White

How to Wear a Suit Unbuttoned (1)

Conventional wisdom states that you always button your suit jacket. This is good advice: a buttoned suit jacket is more slimming than an unbuttoned one. What’s more, it shows off the cut of the suit itself to the best possible effect. When in doubt, you should always fasten your suit jacket. However, there are no rules in men’s fashion that can’t be bent or broken on occasion to produce a better look. There are circ*mstances where wearing your suit open is an astute stylistic choice. But what are these circ*mstances and how can you take advantage of them?

First of all, you must consider your build. If you are especially slim, you may not need to worry about using your suit jacket to flatter your figure. This may also be the case if you are powerfully built with very well-defined muscles. Utilising a suit jacket to slim down your profile is only really necessary if you have an average or heavier build.

However, even if you have a slim or muscular physique, you still need to consider whether leaving your suit unbuttoned adds anything to your look. There are two major reasons why you might want to leave a suit jacket undone: to give your look a sense of rebelliousness or (for more traditional gentlemen) to show off a waistcoat. If you’re going to leave your suit unfastened for the former reason, it’s best to ensure that your suit has a modern cut and appears less formal overall. One-button, slim-fit suits are your best bet for creating the desired informal effect. You should also avoid shawl and peak lapels and opt for more casual notched lapels. Conversely, if you want to leave your suit unbuttoned to show off a waistcoat, the rest of the suit should be fairly formal, in order to complement the waistcoat.

Regardless of your motives for wearing a suit jacket unbuttoned, you must still confront the problem that most suits are designed to be worn closed and show off their cut best when buttoned. If you’re buying an off-the-rack suit, you’ll have to decide whether it’s worth sacrificing the visual advantage of having it buttoned. However, you can circumvent the problem altogether by using bespoke tailoring. Simply put, you can ask your tailor to make the suit specifically to be worn unbuttoned.

As we stated at the beginning, there are no rules in men’s fashion that can’t be bent or broken. By following these guidelines you’ll find it far easier to pull off a magnificent, unbuttoned look.

How to Wear a Suit Unbuttoned (2024)

FAQs

Can you wear a suit unbuttoned? ›

If you have a single button suit or jacket, you should wear it fastened when standing or walking and leave it open when sitting so you don't pull the fabric. A bonus of wearing your jacket unbuttoned when sitting is that you'll be more comfortable and look like a gentleman who knows his style.

How should a suit jacket fit when unbuttoned? ›

Ideally an open jacket will have a clean line with a slight curve out, but an ill-fitting jacket will bow or warp.

What is the 3 button suit rule? ›

With this basic rule, all you need to remember is 'sometimes, always, never'. These three words answer the question: 'which suit buttons should I fasten? ' For example, you should only fasten the top button sometimes, you should always fasten the middle button, and you should never fasten the bottom button.

How many buttons should I leave unbuttoned on a suit? ›

The top button is all you need. The two-button jacket should never have both buttons fastened. The three-button suit comes with a simple rule: "sometimes, always, never." It means you should sometimes fasten the top button (if you feel like it), always fasten the middle button, and never button the third.

Should you unbutton suit? ›

Buttoning Rules For Single-Breasted Suit Jackets:

These jackets should ALWAYS be buttoned when standing. Unbutton the jacket when sitting down, so that it doesn't crease. The traditional way to button a two-button jacket is to Always fasten the top button and leave the lower undone.

Why do people unbutton their suit? ›

A buttoned suit, when standing, cuts a cleaner silhouette. Prevent the buttons from popping. When seated, unbuttoning allows you to sit more comfortably, prevents wrinkles, and keeps the buttons from popping. Suits come with the assumption that you will never fasten the bottom button.

Should I leave suit jacket unbuttoned? ›

Yes, you can leave your suit jacket unbuttoned when standing and for sure unbuttoned when sitting, depending on the style and fit of the jacket. Leaving it unbuttoned allows for more freedom of movement and a relaxed appearance.

Why do you leave the bottom button unbuttoned on a suit? ›

King Edward VII also set the trend for unbuttoning the bottom of suit jackets. Edward left the bottom button undone as a throwback to when suit jackets were worn as riding coats and to look less “common”. In the beginning, suits were meant more for casual wear, and were even worn when riding horses.

Do I unbutton suit when sitting? ›

Sitting down with the jacket buttoned can ruin the shape of your suit. Be sure to unbutton the suit jacket to feel more comfortable and prevent a button popping during a dinner or business lunch. It's a big part of suit etiquette and will also help you feel more relaxed and at ease - rather than buttoned in!

Should suits be buttoned or unbuttoned? ›

As a general rule of formal wear etiquette, a jacket should be buttoned when standing and unbuttoned when seated. Of course, there are additional rules too. On a two-button jacket, only use the top one when it's time to button up.

Can you wear a 3 piece suit unbuttoned? ›

How to wear a 3 piece suit? Jacket can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned. The waistcoat must always be worn buttoned all the way up, leaving the bottom button open.

Why don't you button the second button on a suit? ›

When wearing a suit, always leave the bottom button open for the waistcoat and jacket. The tradition dates back to King Edward VII from the early 1900s. He unbuttoned the bottom of his waistcoat because he was too fat. He unbuttoned the bottom of his jacket to pay homage to the riding jacket that suits replaced.

Why do you never button both buttons on a suit? ›

On a two-button jacket, you should always use to the top button and never use the second. Whether Edward VII was the true inspiration for this or simply makes for a convenient tale, modern suits are now tailored to fit with the last button unbuttoned ― using it makes them both look and feel too tight.

Do you button or unbutton a 3 piece suit? ›

It works for daily events as well as formal ones. To be sure you wear it the right way, follow these two, very simple, rules: Always leave the last button on your dress waistcoat unbuttoned. The waistcoat should be long enough to cover your belt line, but not much longer than that.

Is it OK to wear a button down shirt unbuttoned? ›

Unbuttoning the Collar Buttons

For the most relaxed look, unbutton the collar point buttons and unbutton the top button. This option for wearing button down collar shirts is best when you need to look your most casual, whether on weekends or after dinner. We do not recommend this look for professional settings.

Should suit buttons be open or closed while sitting? ›

Yes, it is customary to unbutton your suit jacket when sitting down. Leaving the jacket buttoned while seated can lead to unsightly creases and restrict your range of motion. However, if you are wearing a waistcoat or vest, it is typically left buttoned, as it is designed to provide a structured look even when sitting.

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