More Than a Dress: A Brief History of the Cheongsam (2024)

The cheongsam also known as the qipao might be considered the epitome of Chinese fashion. You can see the elegant, body-hugging dress in art and advertising, the movies, and some brides on their wedding days. But how did this iconic item come about?

Let’s start with the basics. While the terms cheongsam and qipao are often used interchangeably (the two terms do indeed refer to the same piece of apparel), they actually have different origins. Cheongsam is from Cantonese and translates as “long gown” while qipao is from Mandarin and literally means “banner robe.”

While “long gown” is understandable, what about “banner robe”? This form-fitting fashion statement is far from a robe, and what the heck do banners have to do with it?

It all started with the Manchus. During the Qing Dynasty in the early 16th century a chieftain named Nurhaci created the Eight Banner System. Warriors were organized into what would eventually be eight different companies, each with its own flag or banner. This powerful military organization would be used to conquer all of China and secure Manchu rule for the next 250 years.

The Manchus, an ethnic minority in China, and anyone living under the Eight Banner System distinguished themselves from ordinary citizens (mostly Han people, China’s largest ethnic group) by wearing different clothing. These “Banner People” wore changpao or “long robes” for men and qipao for women.

More Than a Dress: A Brief History of the Cheongsam (1)

A noble woman from the Qing Dynasty

However, these qipao looked very different from what we know today. They were loose, fully covered the arms and legs, and could be quite heavy with many layers. So how did it transform into its far slinkier modern version?

The Qing Dynasty finally came to an end in 1911. After that came the Republic of China and along with it, reform and increased education for women. Female students ditched the heavy “banner robes” (and not to mention the bound feet) and began wearing a modified version, often including wide trousers.

By the 1920s, long gowns were back in style again, perhaps influenced by Western below-the-knee flapper dresses, and an even further slimmed down version of the original qipao emerged.

When stockings were introduced in Shanghai in the 1930s, things changed again.While an ancient city, Shanghai only gained international attention in the mid-19th century when the Treaty of Nanking opened it as a treaty port. By the 1920s and ‘30s, it had become a hotbed of fashion and style.

More Than a Dress: A Brief History of the Cheongsam (2)

At first women wore qipaos with trousers, much the way men did with changpaos. However, with the introduction stockings and high heels, trousers were done away with and the side slit lengthened.At the same time, again perhaps influenced by Western style, the dresses became tighter. Soon everyone from famous singers to famous first ladies were wearing qipaos, further heightening its popularity.

Of course nothing lasts forever. After the Communist Revolution in 1949, the qipao fell out of favor. Perhaps seen as a symbol of both feudal times and Western influence, anyone caught wearing a qipao was deemed “counter-revolutionary.”

However, the tradition of the qipao continued when, it’s said, tailors in Shanghai escaped to Hong Kong (hence perhaps the rise of the term cheongsam over its Mandarin counterpart). That would explain all the fabulous dresses worn by Maggie Cheung in Wong Kar-Wai’s In the Mood for Love which focuses on the lives of the exiled Shanghainese community in early 1960s Hong Kong.

Want more? Check out Pearl River’s own selection of qipaos and other dresses.

More Than a Dress: A Brief History of the Cheongsam (2024)

FAQs

What does cheongsam symbolize? ›

The cheongsam has become a marker of Chinese identity. This is especially the case for older Chinese women, who regard the cheongsam as a dignified and elegant formal dress that reflects their ethnic roots.

What is the cheongsam controversy? ›

Some Twitter users who described themselves as Asian-American seized on Ms. Daum's dress — a form-fitting red cheongsam (also known as a qipao) with black and gold ornamental designs — as an example of cultural appropriation, a sign of disrespect and exploitation. Other Asian-Americans said the criticism was silly.

What is the meaning of cheongsam dress? ›

: a dress of southern Chinese origin with a slit skirt and a mandarin collar.

Can a white person wear a cheongsam? ›

There is no law on whether or not it's acceptable to wear a cheongsam if you are not Chinese. It comes down to the spirit in which you wear a garment — and whether that spirit communicates respect versus condescension.

What does a Chinese dress symbolize? ›

The qipao has been deemed a national dress that conveys Chinese culture. The qipao, also called cheongsam or changshan, is recognised as a formal dress and an icon of ethnicity, as well as an identity symbol for Chinese women all over the world (Ling, 2009).

What is the male cheongsam called? ›

In function, the changshan is considered the male equivalent of the women's cheongsam (also known as qipao). The changshan was often worn by men with a magua, also commonly translated as "riding jacket" in English language. Changshan.

Is it cultural appropriation to wear a cheongsam dress? ›

Daum's dress — a form-fitting red cheongsam (also known as a qipao) with black and gold ornamental designs — as an example of cultural appropriation, a sign of disrespect and exploitation.

What is the difference between cheongsam and qipao? ›

The word qipao and cheongsam are used interchangeably today. However, the two separate terms symbolise the difference in origins. Cheongsam is in Cantonese and it means “long gown” when translated. As for qipao (旗袍), it is in Mandarin and it means banner robe.

What does the white cheongsam mean? ›

White Cheongsam Dresses

Traditionally, the color white is worn at Chinese funerals and therefore represents mourning. In stark contrast, white is typically worn in western wedding ceremonies and festivities, embodying harmony and purity.

Do people still wear cheongsam? ›

Shanghai-style cheongsams became the most popular qipao style during the Republic of China period due to their fashionable designs and slim shape. Nowadays, Shanghai-style qipaos are still the majority choice and particularly popular with younger women in China.

What are the different types of cheongsam? ›

7 Modern Cheongsam Styles We Love
  • Fishtail Cheongsam. Fishtail cheongsams are very flattering. ...
  • Keyhole Cheongsam. This is a classic look with a modern twist. ...
  • Inverted Colors. Most traditional cheongsams are red with gold accents. ...
  • Lace Top and Sheer Skirt. ...
  • One Shoulder Cheongsam. ...
  • Mandarin Collar. ...
  • Trendy Colors.
Mar 13, 2021

What does the color black qipao mean? ›

Black - Water: Black color in Chinese culture is associated with destruction, evil, profundity, disaster and suffering. It is bad fortune and is not recommended to be worn to auspicious occasions like weddings.

What do you wear under cheongsam? ›

LQY: Wear seamless underwear; it's amazing how many women wear overly tight elastic that will show under any form fitting dress, much less a cheongsam.

What does it mean to wear white in China? ›

White represents the element of metal in traditional Chinese culture, also symbolizing purity and innocence. In some instances, however, white is associated with death and is a color commonly worn at funerals. Today in China, white is a popular color for consumer goods and is a common color choice for cars.

Is qipao sexualized? ›

Western dress codes were an influential factor in assigning meanings to qipao. Analyses revealed that the qipao is a highly gendered and sexualized object that reflects global stereotypes about Asian, particularly Chinese, women who, in turn, are self-oriented to this stereotype.

Why are Chinese dresses red? ›

Chinese wedding dress colors matter. While there is no one color specifically associated with qipaos, for Chinese weddings, red is the way to go. Red in Chinese culture symbolizes everything you could ever want - good luck, happiness, and joy.

Why do Chinese dresses have slits? ›

What's the origin story? It is from the Qing Dynasty, when the Manchus ruled China. The Manchus wore long, loose robes called chángpáo 长袍, which had slits down the sides, convenient for riding horses and archery.

What is the symbol of beauty in China? ›

Goose egg face (鹅蛋脸, édànliǎn)

Also sometimes referred to as a melon seed face (瓜子脸, guāzǐliǎn), this is the traditional symbol of beauty in China. It's a small face, with a soft but slightly pointy chin paired with slightly rounded cheekbones with soft lines.

What does cheongsam translate to in English? ›

Meaning of cheongsam in English

a straight, tight silk dress with a high neck and a slit (= cut) in the side of the skirt, in a style that became popular in China, especially Shanghai: A petite woman, dressed in a cheongsam, appeared.

What are Chinese pajamas called? ›

Traditionally, hanfu consists of a paofu robe, or a ru jacket worn as the upper garment with a qun skirt commonly worn as the lower garment. In addition to clothing, hanfu also includes several forms of accessories, such as headwear, footwear, belts, jewellery, yupei and handheld fans.

What is a Chinese button up shirt called? ›

A mandarin collar, standing collar, Nehru collar, band collar or choker collar is a short unfolded stand-up collar style on a shirt or jacket. The style derives its Western name from the mandarin bureaucrats in Qing-era China that employed it as part of their uniform.

Is it disrespectful for a non Japanese person to wear a kimono? ›

In short, you will not be viewed as 'stealing' Japanese culture if you wear a kimono and you are respectful when doing so. In fact, many Japanese would be pleased to see you wear a kimono as it demonstrates your passion for Japanese culture.

Can you wear makeup with qipao? ›

Makeup for qipao

The makeup can be tailored to the bride's preference, or to what is currently trendy and suitable. Contrary to what most brides believe, red lipstick is not a must when wearing a qipao. A nude or pink lipstick can look just as beautiful and appropriate.

Do Japanese wear qipao? ›

In Japan it is known as the "China dress", and the popularity of the dress in Japanese media stems back to the Japanese occupation of China during the Second Sino-Japanese War when Chinese women still used the qipao as daily wear.

Who wears cheongsam? ›

The cheongsam — also known as the qipao — might be considered the epitome of Chinese fashion. You can see the elegant, body-hugging dress in art and advertising, the movies, and some brides on their wedding days.

Is it okay for foreigners to wear qipao? ›

It's totally ok. The qipao/cheongsam as we know it was first created in the 20s as formalwear, and then became popular enough to be regular street fashion for Chinese women. It's not really a traditional dress by any means. Today of course, qipao are exclusively for formal or semi-formal events.

What is a Chinese wedding dress called? ›

At most Chinese weddings, the bride wears a cheongsam or qipao. Brides with backgrounds from Southern China may prefer to wear a two-piece dress named Qun Kwa (裙褂). Both dresses are typically red and often elaborately adorned with gold dragon and phoenix symbols.

What ethnicity is cheongsam? ›

Cheongsam (UK: /tʃ(i)ɒŋˈsæm/, US: /tʃɔːŋˈsɑːm/), also known as the qipao (/ˈtʃiːpaʊ/) and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the qizhuang, the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people.

What is white beauty in Chinese? ›

Chinese Beauty Standards | Skin Tone

Perfect” which is 白富美 (bái fù měi) which literally means: white, rich and beautiful. This shows the importance of fairer skin in Chinese society.

What is the difference between Hanfu and cheongsam? ›

“Chinese” clothing is often typified by the qipao (a close-fitting dress also called the cheongsam). However, Hanfu—which is defined as a type of dress from any era when the Han Chinese ruled—is seen in China as a more authentic form of historical clothing.

What is the difference between kimono and cheongsam? ›

The kimono is worn by both men and women. The cheongsam is a chinese dress. The modern cheongsam is worn only by women. There are many variations in the design and embellishments of the modern cheongsam and is often worn as a high fashion item.

Can I wear a qipao to a wedding? ›

You can wear qipao to go out shopping, have dinner, in weddings, take art photos, attend parties, and wear daily.

What do colors mean in China? ›

In Chinese Five Elements Theory, a traditional philosophy about natural interactions used in fengshui etc., red represents 'fire', yellow 'earth', white 'metal', black 'water', and green (or blue) 'wood'.

Is it appropriate to wear a cheongsam dress? ›

Yes, of course! It's not offensive at all. It's actually one way of showing your appreciation of a foreign culture. I'm not Korean, but here's a photo of me wearing a hanbok with my boyfriend when I visited him in Korea.

What are the characteristics of cheongsam? ›

What are the features of a cheongsam? The main features of cheongsams are a Mandarin collar, traditional Chinese knotted buttons fastening the overlapping chest portion, two slits on both sides and a fitted waist. Cheongsams are made from cotton, silk, or brocade.

What does cheongsam mean in embroidery? ›

Cheongsam is in Cantonese and it means “long gown” when translated.

What do you wear under a cheongsam? ›

A white cotton undershirt is often worn underneath the cheongsam.

What is the most popular dress in China? ›

Qipao (Cheongsam) — the Most Famous Traditional Chinese Dress. The cheongsam (qipao) evolved from the Manchu women's changpao ('long gown') of the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912). The Manchu ethnic people were also called the Qi people by the Han people; hence their long gown was named qipao ('Qi gown').

Can anyone wear qipao dress? ›

In contrast to some cultural garments with deeper-level cultural and spiritual significance, like the Native American headdress, qipao is quite neutral in China nowadays as a retro fashion clothing choice, which anyone can wear anywhere, whereas Keziah's critics ascribed it with untouchable reverence.

What is a cheongsam top called? ›

A Qipao, sometimes referred to as a cheongsam or a “Mandarin gown,” is a classic garment traditionally made from embroidered silk, featuring a high collar and delicate cloth buttons on the front. The qipaos you might be familiar with are tight-fitting and associated with the Shanghainese socialites of the '60s.

What is the cheongsam neckline called? ›

The mandarin collar is one of the most quintessential parts of a qipao. The collar is usually made from a single piece of material that wraps around the neck, with the two ends meeting at the center front of the neck.

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