OPINION | MALE CALL: Pleated pants out of style -- safe bet, buy a new suit | Arkansas Democrat Gazette (2024)

Q I have a navy suit with pleated trousers that I would like to wear for an interview with a New York City-based firm, but I am afraid it's out of style. I have a suit with skinnier pants, but I do like the navy. Please let me know if this would be OK to wear, or if it's out of style still. Thank you!

A Well, yes, the blue suit with pleats is still out of style. When I first read your question, my immediate thought was that you might get away with it for an interview. The pleats on the trousers would not be obvious. Since you have no reason to take off your jacket during an interview, no one would be aware of the pleats just below your belt.

After thinking more about your question, I realized that was not really such wise or useful advice.

If it's got pleated pants, almost certainly that's not the only thing that is outdated about your suit. Chances are it is older than 10 or 12 years. It has been at least that long since suits were being manufactured with pleated trousers. Back then, not only were suits made with pleats in the trousers, but the general styling was different: jackets were more squared, they were longer, there was more padding in the shoulders, and the entire suit was a much fuller cut.

It's true that tailors can take the pleats out, reconstructing pants into flat-fronts, and it is even possible for a skilled tailor to do a major overhaul on your jacket to make it look trimmer and more up to date. But such work is pricey; not every tailor is up to the job; and it may not be worth the investment. Bringing square and boxy shoulders to a current slimmer look can come close to what a new suit would cost. I would not recommend it.

You did not describe your other suit beyond the trousers' being a more current cut. Depending upon the color, style and fit, that suit might be your better choice. Most likely you are going to want to give up on the old blue suit and, if at all possible, buy a second suit. Many "white collar" positions have occasions in which suits are needed a number of days in a row, and you need some variety.

Start with a fine quality dark suit. The two most essential items are a navy suit and a charcoal gray suit. I'm hoping your suit with the skinnier pants is a dark gray. Because navy blue flatters all complexions (and gray sometimes does not), every man's closet can benefit from more than one well-tailored navy suit. At no time, and especially not when looking for a new job, do you want to look passe and out-of-date. Knowing you are well-dressed is a great boost to a man's self-confidence.

For a wise choice, look for a lightweight wool suit in either a solid navy or a very simple navy pattern, single-breasted, with natural shoulders, very little padding and a flattering, slim cut. Be sure not to overlook having any small, or not-so-small, alterations made that would elevate the suit's fit. Consult with the store's tailor about his specific suggestions for bringing it up to "perfection."

Why not use this as an opportunity -- a stepping stone -- to jump start your new, more modern business image?

Please send your men's dress and grooming questions and comments to MALE CALL:

Lois.Fenton@prodigy.net

This article delves into the timeless conundrum of dressing appropriately for a professional interview while navigating the nuances of style. Let's dissect the concepts it touches upon:

1. Suit Style and Trends:

  • Pleated Trousers: The article highlights the outdated nature of pleated trousers in suits. It explains that suits with pleats are generally older, reflecting a style that was prominent around a decade or more ago.
  • Changes in Suit Design: Older suits had fuller cuts, squared jackets, longer lengths, and more shoulder padding compared to modern, slimmer-cut suits.

2. Tailoring and Alterations:

  • Tailoring Solutions: The piece discusses the possibility of altering the suit by removing pleats from trousers and reshaping the jacket to appear more current. However, it warns about the costliness and potential limitations of such alterations.

3. Advice on Suit Selection:

  • Recommendation for a Second Suit: Advises considering purchasing a second suit, emphasizing the necessity for variety, especially in professional settings that demand frequent suit wear.
  • Essential Suit Colors: Emphasizes the importance of owning a navy suit and a charcoal gray suit due to their versatility and timelessness. Navy is particularly praised for flattering all complexions.

4. Tips for Modern Dressing:

  • Features of a Modern Suit: Suggests opting for a lightweight wool suit in solid navy or a simple navy pattern, with a single-breasted design, natural shoulders, minimal padding, and a slim cut. It also stresses the importance of tailoring for a perfect fit.
  • Boosting Self-Confidence: Emphasizes the psychological impact of dressing well and feeling confident, especially in professional settings and during job interviews.

5. Personal Grooming Advice:

  • Contact Information: Encourages readers to send questions and comments regarding men's dress and grooming to the provided email address for further advice and guidance.

Understanding these concepts underscores the importance of balancing timeless style with modern sensibilities in professional attire, offering insights into how to navigate the interview process while maintaining a contemporary and confident appearance.

OPINION | MALE CALL: Pleated pants out of style -- safe bet, buy a new suit | Arkansas Democrat Gazette (2024)
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