Port is one of the world’s greatest fortified sweet wines, yet getting a handle on its many styles and knowing which type to buy can be difficult.
In very basic terms, Port can be divided into three categories: ruby, which matures mostly in the bottle and is named for its dark purplish ruby red color, tawny which ages in wooden barrels and has a tawny brownish color, and white, made in both aged and unaged versions, and like white wine, is pale or golden yellow in color.
What is Port Wine?
To be called Port, the grapes must be grown in the Upper Douro region of northern Portugal, the most mountainous wine region in the world and a Unesco World Heritage Site. Douro also has the distinction of being the world’s first officially demarcated wine region, created in 1756, the only place in the world that can produce authentic Port.
Port is always a blend of different native grape varieties, and there are dozens of them, most of which you probably haven’t heard of, with the most common being red: Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinat Barroca, Tinto Cão, and Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo). White Port, on the other hand, comes from obscure white wine grapes like Códega, Gouveio, and Malvasia Fina. But don’t worry, you won’t be tested on these names!
Generations of hard-working farmers have turned Douro’s steep schist and granite hillsides into terraced vineyards. The roots are forced to grow deep down into the rocky crevices in search of water to sustain them during hot, dry summers, resulting in extraordinary grapes born from harsh conditions.
“The wines become jewels,” says Lígia Marques of Sogrape, whose portfolio includes Douro’s Sandeman winery, “and are the lovely result of men and women who take good care of what nature gives them.”
Travel writer Rick Steves says that the production of port remains a labor of love. “Grapes are still generally picked by hand and crushed the traditional way — by foot — since machines are unable to achieve high-quality results,” says Steves.
But with manpower becoming an increasingly scarce resource in the Douro, mechanical methods for treading the grapes are now used in addition to traditional foot treading.
From Grapes to Port: The Fortification Process
Unlike traditional still wine that is fermented dry, Port is fortified. During fermentation, a clear grape spirit (usually brandy) is added, which stops the fermenting process, thereby preserving many of the grapes’ natural sugars and giving Port its signature sweetness. Adding the spirit also increases the alcohol content of Port wine which is usually in the 18-20% ABV range, whereas non-fortified red wines are typically 12 to 15%.
After fermentation, most producers transfer their Port wine to their cellars (known as lodges) in the city of Porto, a three or four hours drive away and closer to the sea, where the humidity is ideal for aging the wines. Porto is a beautiful city to explore and visitors are welcome at many of the lodges for tastings and tours, which I highly recommend.
Three Styles of Port
Within the three categories of Port wine, Ruby, Tawny and White, there are more than one style, each with their own labeling, so it can be frustrating as a consumer to know and remember all the different kinds.
But, for starters, if you have a good understanding of the three basic types, you should be able to comfortably walk into a wine shop or restaurant and make a selection,or at the very least be able to ask the salesperson or waiter questions based on your budding knowledge.
Ruby Port
Basic Ruby Port
There are six types of Ruby Port, with those labeled as simply Ruby Port being the most basic. These wines, often bulk-produced, are made from a blend of younger wines from many vintages. Easy-drinking, inexpensive sweet wines; tasty, but not something to bring to dinner with the in-laws.
Vintage Port
On the opposite end of the Ruby Port spectrum are the prestigious Vintage Ports. These elegant wines, with their stunning dark purplish red color and vibrant acidity, come from top grapes and are only produced in the very best years. Vintage Port spends no more than two years in barrels before being bottled, and is sold young—meant to be cellared by the buyer, ideally in an at-home wine cellar with a cool and consistent temperature. These special wines can be left to sit for decades and will gain complexity.
However, while many people wouldn’t dare drink a Vintage Port until it’s had at least 15 to 30 years of aging, I find younger examples (up to 5 years old) can also be a delicious treat. They’re a different animal than the longer aged versions for sure, dominated by ripe red and black berry fruit flavors and a strong tannic backbone.
In Decanter Magazine, Andrew Jefford says you’re missing out if you don’t try young Vintage Port. “Even young there is a complexity, a refinement and an intrinsic subtlety engraved into a wine of this sort,” he says, “and those qualities are perfectly capable of youthful expression.”
While a young Vintage Port can no doubt be enjoyed, those that are aged offer wine lovers the most extraordinary experience. Given time in the bottle, the wine becomes intriguing, gaining complexity, elegance and delicacy. As the fruitiness and strong tannins mellow, a whole new array of interesting flavors appear: dried fruit (particularly figs), black cherry, honey, pepper, spice, almonds, even hints of tea leaves and cigar box.
A classic food pairing with Vintage Port includes Stilton, or other richly-flavored cheeses, accompanied by dark chocolate, figs, and walnuts. And for dessert, try Vintage Port with anything chocolate.
Vintage Port producers to look for: Dow’s, Taylor Fladgate, Graham’s, Fonseca, Niepoort, Churchills, Quinta do Vesuvio, Croft, Conceito.
In between simple, quaffable Ruby Port and exquisite, meant-to-be-savored Vintage Port, there are four other Ports under the ruby umbrella that I’ve listed below, in ascending order of quality.
Reserve Ruby Port is a step up from simple Ruby Port,made from better fruit and with more stringent standards.
Crusted is bottled unfiltered, leaving a sediment (crust) that forms in the bottle. This full-bodied style is somewhat similar to Vintage Port, but at a much lower price point.
Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) is similar to Vintage Port in that it is from a single year and made of high quality fruit. Unlike Vintage, it is bottled after a longer time in barrels, four to six years, and it’s produced every year, not just in the most outstanding years.
Vintage Single Quinta are even more similar in style to Vintage except that they originate from a single estate (called a quinta), whereas Vintage Port can be sourced from a variety of quintas.
Tawny Port
Like Vintage Port, Tawny Port is a connoisseurs’ wine; the best examples maintain a beautiful acidity with a sugar level that is not too high. Wine that is destined to become Tawny rests for a long time in wooden casks. The increased contact with oxygen results in wine with a translucent reddish-brown color and a nutty taste.
In contrast to fruit-forward, powerful Vintage Port, Tawny Port offers a more subtle array of flavors like caramel, peanut brittle, dried fruits (apricots, dates, raisins, prunes), nutmeg, chocolate and walnut.
In contrast to Vintage Port, tawny is aged before you buy it and is not meant to be cellared further. They are released in 10-, 20-, 30- and 40-year-old versions, with the age referring to time spent in wood. 10-year-olds show youthful fruitiness, whereas 20-year-olds offer more complexity and a lively freshness. 30- and 40-year-olds tend to be richer and sweeter with a more unctuous texture.
With their nutty nuances, Tawny Port pairs naturally with nut-based desserts like pecan pie and almond biscotti, but they are also capable of partnering with savory items such as a charcuterie board of salamis and thinly sliced hams, Pecorino cheese, olives, dried prunes and apricots, potato chips and nuts.
Tawny Wines to Try: 10-year-old: Ramos-Pinto, Ferreira, Sandeman. 20-year-old: Graham’s, Taylor Fladgate, Dow’s. 30-year-old: Sandeman, Graham’s. 40-year-old: Graham’s, Taylor Fladgate, Sandeman, Quinta Do Noval.
White Port
White Port is only about 10% of the overall production of all Port wine, and ranges from pale yellow to golden in color. It is produced in two very different styles—one, bottled young, is lighter bodied (and lighter in color), and less sweet with notes of wood spice and zesty citrus fruits—grapefruit, lemon and orange peel. The other version of White Port is barrel aged for up to 40 years, resulting in a golden-colored, sweeter and richer style, with captivating notes of lemon curd, orange marmalade, toffee.
The younger, drier style is typically served over ice, as a White Port and tonic spritzer, a classic Portuguese aperitif, or, increasingly, in co*cktails. It is interesting to note that back in the 1800s, many American co*cktails were based on Port wine and today, once again, White Port is becoming every savvy bartender’s best friend. When added to co*cktails, particularly those made with gin, vodka or tequila, White Port’s bright acidity, residual sugar, and slightly oxidized, nutty notes make for outstanding drinks; light and refreshing but with a multitude of flavors.
The opulent wood-aged versions of White Port, on the other hand, are best drunk on their own, simply chilled from the fridge, as you would a Vintage Port, and often accompanied with dessert. One of my favorite producers, Kopke, makes a beautiful 20-year-old White Port that is divine with tarte tatin as well as fresh fruit tarts and crème brulée. Aged white Port can be paired with more savory items too, think blue and goat cheeses, as well as pork belly, brisket, smoked salmon and sushi.Like Tawny Port, these White Ports have been matured and are meant to be drunk when purchased.
White Ports to try in co*cktails: Dow’s Fine White, Churchill’s Dry White, Warre’s Fine White, Quinta do Infantado White. Recommended Aged White Port: Niepoort 10 Anos White, Kopke 20-year-old White, Kopke Colheita 2003 White, C. da Silva 1971 Golden Colheita White.
Hopefully, the above is enough to get you started on your own fantastic Port wine journey. Try several different styles as well as different producer’s versions, and with all kinds of food. And make sure to keep track of what you like best.
For more information about Port wine, visit the IDVP: Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto. Many thanks to the IDVP for providing samples of Port Wine. All opinions expressed are my own.
