Tartan, Kilts & Scottish National Dress (2024)

What's the history of tartan?

Where did tartan come from?

Despite its close association with Scotland, the earliest sample of tartan was actually found in China from around 3000 BC. Its Scottish roots run deep though, dating back to the 3rd or 4th century. We’ve been using it to make kilts, bagpipes, rebellions and fashion-statements ever since.

The Jacobite Rebellion

Fast forward a few centuries and we start to see tartan really exploding on the scene. Picture windswept romantics in the Highland countryside swathed in glorious Scottish tartan from head to toe. This is a popular conception of Scottish clans and their tartan, but it was the result of some clever Jacobite propaganda that’s added to myth and legend over the years.

Bonnie Prince Charlie, Scotland’s roguish Jacobite hero, arrived on Scottish soil fully clad in tartan in 1745, using fashion to draw together the ancient strength of the Scottish clans to fight for the throne. Although the Jacobite rebellion was ultimately unsuccessful, tartan became so powerfully interwoven with the idea of Scottish identity and rebellion that it was banned by the British Government following the Battle of Culloden in 1746.

Tartan, clans and revival

It wasn’t until the mid-1800s that tartan saw revival with another epic branding campaign by none other than Sir Walter Scott. Sir Walter wanted Clan chiefs to wear their clan tartans and full Highland dress when greeting King George IV during his hotly anticipated visit to Edinburgh in 1822. A great idea that had only one wee flaw: most of the chiefs were only just learning they were supposed to have clan-specific tartan. They rose to the occasion though, submitting their 'official' clan tartans and cementing the link between clans and tartans firmly into history.

The campaign was a major success; King George was so taken with the fabric he had a portrait painted of him as a Stuart prince, with a tartan kilt, socks, cape and all. He passed this fascination and royal connection on to his niece, Queen Victoria, who made tartan the fashion statement it continues to be to this day.

Tartan, Kilts & Scottish National Dress (3)

Tartan today

But tartan isn’t just about the past; it continues to weave its story across Scotland and the globe.

It has always been at the forefront of modernity – the first ever colour photo was of a tartan ribbon and it’s even travelled to space!

Tartan is just as easily found on a high fashion runway as part of school uniforms. In more recent years, some of the world’s biggest names in fashion have gravitated towards this fabric for its bold look and history of rebellion, from Chanel and Dior to Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen.

Its uncanny ability to express tradition or undermine it – sometimes even at the same time – means it’s been powerfully adopted by causes and groups to represent their values and social conscience. It has connected LGBTQ+ communities with a shared identity, a tartan design was registered to represent the climate change summit COP26, and it’s been used to raise awareness of MND in honour of the legendary rugby player, Doddie Weir. There’s even a Homeless tartan – 20% of all sales of this fabric go to the charity Shelter Scotland.

From the poor to the rich, the franchised to the disenfranchised, tartan is a fabulously diverse, playful and complex material for everybody.

Tartan, Kilts & Scottish National Dress (2024)

FAQs

Can anyone wear Scottish national tartan? ›

But here's the big take-away: there's no rule to stop you wearing any old clan or family tartan! That idea's a myth. Scottish tradition is all about welcoming outsiders into our community.

What's special about the Scots national dress? ›

The kilt, with its long history and deep roots in Scottish culture, became a natural emblem of this heritage, embodying the pride and tradition of the Scottish people. Tourists were also drawn to the kilt's unique and distinctive style, which set it apart from other traditional dress around the world.

What is the difference between a kilt and a tartan? ›

Irish kilts & tartans

One of the main differences between Irish and Scottish kilts is the tartan pattern. Scottish kilts are often associated with clan tartans, which are unique patterns that represent different Scottish clans. Irish kilts, on the other hand, often feature plain colours such as green or orange shades.

What is the difference between tartan and dress tartan? ›

In a dress tartan the 'ground' colour (thats the main base colour of the tartan) is most often replaced by white. sometimes a yellow or bright red tartan is referred to as the dress tartan but normally its a totally different design.

Is it OK to wear a kilt if you're not Scottish? ›

One of the great things about kilts is that they are versatile and can be worn by anyone, regardless of their background. Non-Scottish grooms and groomsmen can wear kilts just as well as those with Scottish heritage.

Who is entitled to wear a Scottish tartan? ›

As long as you're respectful, you can wear almost any Scottish tartan you like regardless of clan or family. One of the most famous exceptions is the Balmoral tartan. This is the royal tartan and to wear it you must have the sovereign's permission.

What are the rules for wearing tartan? ›

There are no specific rules governing which tartan you can wear, just traditions. The most important thing is it makes you feel proud to wear it. People participate in a traditional Scottish Ceilidh, Fintry Town Hall.

When was the kilt banned in Scotland? ›

The Jacobite risings demonstrated the dangers to central government of such warrior Highland clans, and as part of a series of measures the government of King George II imposed the "Dress Act" in 1746, outlawing men and boys wearing items of Highland dress including kilts (although an exception was made for the ...

What is the female equivalent of a kilt? ›

The Léine. In ancient Celtic culture, women wore a type of kilt known as a léine. The léine was a long, loose-fitting garment made from wool or linen that was similar in shape to the féileadh-mór worn by men. The léine was worn by women of all social classes, and was often belted at the waist to give it shape.

Are kilts Irish or Scottish? ›

Though the origins of the Irish kilt continue to be a subject of debate, current evidence suggests that kilts originated in the Scottish Highlands and Isles and were worn by Irish nationalists from at least 1850s onwards and then cemented from the early 1900s as a symbol of Gaelic identity.

Is tartan actually Scottish? ›

Tartan fabric is considered a symbol of Scottish identity. It is traditionally made of wool, which is woven into a pattern of simple checks, used in clothing and textiles.

What do the colors of the Scottish kilts mean? ›

It's said that red tartan was worn in battle so blood would not show, green resembled the forest, blue symbolising lakes and rivers and yellow resembling crops. Today, the colours identify religion as red and green tartans represent Catholics and the blue represents Protestants.

Can you wear tartan if I'm not Scottish? ›

Luckily, for those with no Scottish blood or ancestry, there are universal tartans and non-clan tartans they can wear. These types of tartan include Highland Granite, Isle of Skye and Black Watch.

What is the national dress of Scotland? ›

The plaid and kilt form the only national costume in the British Isles that is worn for ordinary purposes, rather than merely for special occasions. Highland dress is also the uniform of Scottish regiments in the British army, and kilts have been worn in battle as recently as World War II.

What tartan does a woman wear? ›

The customary piece of Scottish womens wear is the earasaid (or arisaid in its Anglicized form). The earasaid did not necessarily have a tartan pattern, but it could have a tartan motif. If you picture a long, floor-length kilt that belts around the waist, you'll have some idea of the earasaid.

What tartan can I not wear? ›

There are a few tartans which are restricted, meaning not everyone can wear them. The Balmoral tartan for example, can only be worn by members of the British Royal Family and there are still some clan tartans that can only be worn if the Clan Chief allows you to.

Which tartans can be worn by anyone? ›

Luckily, for those with no Scottish blood or ancestry, there are universal tartans and non-clan tartans they can wear. These types of tartan include Highland Granite, Isle of Skye and Black Watch.

What entitles you to wear a tartan? ›

Q. What tartan am I entitled to wear? A. The clan tartan associated with your name and Scottish family heritage, or the district tartan for the Scottish district or region with which you have an association.

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