When is a Plaid a Tartan? (2024)

Are the terms plaid and tartan just different names for the same thing? Well, it's complicated!

Christina Garton Oct 18, 2022 - 3 min read

A plaid that's a tartan will have the same weft color order as its warp color order. Photo by Ekaterina-Grosheva on UnSplash

My boyfriend was in the U.K. last week, exploring London, Edinburgh, York, Oxford, and taking a few other choice day trips. As you can imagine, I am full of conflicted feelings about it. I may have cried once as I was drooling over his vacation photos.

A few of these photos are 360-degree virtual reality panoramas, complete with sound, only viewable with his Google Cardboard goggles. When I put on the goggles to view a panorama of the esplanade outside Edinburgh Castle, I had to catch my breath! It really was almost like I was there.

I turned around to look back on the Royal Mile and saw a familiar red and white building off to the left, which I remembered as the historic building that now houses the Edinburgh Tartan Weaving Mill and Experience, formerly the Edinburgh Old Town Weaving and before that it served as the reservoir for the entire city of Edinburgh! I was immediately overcome with the desire to visit that place again, now that I’ve started learning to weave.

When is a Plaid a Tartan? (1)

Dozens of spools set up as a tartan warp is wound at the Edinburgh Tartan Weaving Mill and Experience. Photo by Christina Garton

Learning about the Edinburgh Tartan Weaving Mill and Experience, I had a question called to mind that has bothered me for a while, but never enough to actually look it up: _Is plaid just another name for tartan?

Many of you more experienced weavers may already know this, but all tartans are plaid. However, not all plaids are tartan! Both plaids and tartans are woven of stripes that meet at 90-degree angles. Tartans have an identical pattern of stripes running vertically and horizontally, resulting in overlapping square grids. Regular plaids are not necessarily the same in both directions, with variation in color, size, and/or pattern of stripes. In addition, tartan is almost always woven in a two-over-two twill pattern, which forms the illusion of new colors blended from the original ones.

When is a Plaid a Tartan? (2)

A wound tartan warp. Photo by Christina Garton

In Scotland, the word “plaid” comes from the Gaelic word for blanket, and it’s used to describe the large kind of kilt worn over the shoulder, not the fabric pattern. So, if you ever take a trip to visit the Edinburgh Old Town Weaving Company, be sure not to make that rookie mistake and mind the difference between tartan and plaid!

When is a Plaid a Tartan? (3)A Scottish "plaid" that appears to also be a tartan. It gets confusing pretty quickly! Photo by Mathia Reding on UnSplash

Happy Weaving!

Christina

Last updated October 19, 2022.

When is a Plaid a Tartan? (2024)

FAQs

What makes a plaid a tartan? ›

Both plaids and tartans are woven of stripes that meet at 90-degree angles. Tartans have an identical pattern of stripes running vertically and horizontally, resulting in overlapping square grids. Regular plaids are not necessarily the same in both directions, with variation in color, size, and/or pattern of stripes.

Why do Americans say plaid and not tartan? ›

We follow Scottish tradition which sees tartan as a pattern with a recognised name, associated with a clan, family, or other community. So plaid is useful as a term to identify all the other tartan-like patterns that have no such association or heritage.

Is tartan plaid Irish or Scottish? ›

One of the main differences between Irish and Scottish kilts is the tartan pattern. Scottish kilts are often associated with clan tartans, which are unique patterns that represent different Scottish clans. Irish kilts, on the other hand, often feature plain colours such as green or orange shades.

What is the difference between a kilt and a plaid? ›

kilt, knee-length skirtlike garment that is worn by men as a major element of the traditional national garb of Scotland. (The other main component of Highland dress, as the traditional male garb of Scotland is called, is the plaid, which is a rectangular length of cloth worn over the left shoulder.)

What are the rules for tartan pattern? ›

Tartans are almost always symmetrical, with the pattern (known as the 'sett') repeating in the same sequence both vertically or length-wise (the 'warp' on a weaving loom) and horizontally or width-wise (the 'weft' on a weaving loom). The colours visually mix into a composite shade where they cross.

What counts as tartan? ›

A - For the purposes of the Register, the definition of 'tartan' is that contained within the Scottish Register of Tartans Act (2008) Section 2: 'A tartan is a design which is capable of being woven consisting of two or more alternating coloured stripes which combine vertically and horizontally to form a repeated ...

Does the US have a tartan? ›

34 American states have their own tartan, along with 630 other tartans for American companies, cities, military organisations, fire departments, schools & universities, Highland games, sports teams, private individuals, police forces and a diverse range of other organisations including famous names such as the FBI, the ...

Can Americans wear tartan? ›

But here's the big take-away: there's no rule to stop you wearing any old clan or family tartan! That idea's a myth. Scottish tradition is all about welcoming outsiders into our community.

Is Burberry Check a tartan? ›

It has become so much part of the Burberry image that it has been trademarked and can now be regarded as a Corporate tartan. The basic sett remains the same even with official Burberry colour changes. Scottish Tartans Society thread count slightly different K24, W24, K24, LT84, R8.

What tartan is used in Outlander? ›

Tartans on Outlander clansmen

The main “Outlander tartan” pattern is made of brown and blue-grey blocks and stripes, and has two additional variations. One of them has fine yellow and red stripes throughout the pattern, being the “Fraser” tartan, worn for the first time by Sam Heughan for his wedding.

Can non-Scottish people wear kilts? ›

One of the great things about kilts is that they are versatile and can be worn by anyone, regardless of their background. Non-Scottish grooms and groomsmen can wear kilts just as well as those with Scottish heritage.

Who can wear Campbell tartan? ›

To be faithful to Scottish tradition, only those descended from the Houses of Breadalbane, Cawdor and Loudoun should wear the tartans belonging to those houses; all other Campbells and members of other Campbell septs should wear Ancient or "plain" Campbell tartan, which is composed of threads of only three colors: blue ...

Why don't you wear pants with a kilt? ›

During the 18th century, Highland regiments in the British Army were known to wear kilts without anything underneath, which is where the term "going regimental" comes from. This practice was considered a display of toughness and masculinity, as well as a way to maintain mobility and comfort during battle.

When was the kilt banned in Scotland? ›

The Jacobite risings demonstrated the dangers to central government of such warrior Highland clans, and as part of a series of measures the government of King George II imposed the "Dress Act" in 1746, outlawing men and boys wearing items of Highland dress including kilts (although an exception was made for the ...

What do Americans call tartan? ›

In North America, plaid and tartan are used more or less interchangeably. Meanwhile in Scotland some checks are recorded by the Scottish Register of Tartans. The simplest way to disentangle and remember this is that the word plaid can describe almost any criss-cross pattern.

Is Burberry plaid a tartan? ›

History of the Imitated, Iconic Burberry Tartan

In the 1920s, the company introduced a distinct tartan plaid, sewing it within the lining of their popular trench coats. Today, this pattern is one of the most recognized symbols in fashion.

Why is plaid associated with Scotland? ›

Plaid, derived from the Scottish Gaelic plaide meaning 'blanket', was first used of any rectangular garment, sometimes made up of tartan, which could be worn several ways: the belted plaid (breacan féile) or "great kilt" which preceded the modern kilt; the arisaid (earasaid), a large shawl that could be wrapped into a ...

What is the difference between plaid and checked? ›

The difference between plaids and checks lies in these repeating patterns. Checks are two colors and have the same stripe pattern in the warp and the weft. The finished cloth is always symmetrical. Plaids have more than two colors and more variety in their stripe layouts.

Why do Scottish clans have tartans? ›

Originally, tartans were used to identify different clans and their respective territories. Today, tartans are still worn, but their use has expanded beyond just clan identification. Tartans are now commonly worn as a symbol of Scottish heritage and pride.

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